The Keep

Click Below to Pay With Credit Card.

Web was created by law on 01/05. Website is maintained by the Rios family.

ALL OF OUR AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIERS ARE ADBA REGISTERED.

Barney Fife's Keep

Agree on a date with your opponent that gives you eight weeks to condition your dog.

Set a specific time of the day for the match. This should be the same time of day that you will be able to work your dog. If you rise early and will work your dog at six a.m. Then set the match time for 6.a.m. Dogs are creatures of habit and do well on a predictable schedule.

Agree on the amount of the wager. Half of this should be sent to the referee as the forfeit. Always get a cash or money order forfeit from your opponent unless you know them very well. Agree on the rules, referee, number of people per side and the meeting place immediately prior to the match. I like Cajun rules with a 10-30-30. This means there is a 10-second scratch count, 30 seconds in the corner between scratches and a 30-second out of hold count (bottom dog to scratch). Get a referee that knows the rules and is impartial because his decision is final. Go over the rules with the other handler and referee prior to the match. This eliminates arguments during the match.

Set up negotiations directly with the person you are matching into. Do not negotiate through 3rd parties, which causes misunderstandings.

If you are traveling to your opponent, try to get a weight or bet advantage to cover the disadvantage of traveling. Also set up a meeting spot no more than 15 minutes drive from the match site. This eliminates long bumpy drives to the site, which disrupt the match dog.

Match high ability hard biting dogs in cold weather this type of match dog exempts large amounts of energy and is more likely to "run hot" or become exhausted. A long-winded defensive can go in warmer temperatures like 70F. A dog can be matched at an air-conditioned site in hot weather.

It is best to set up private (ten per side) matches early in the morning. The early hour keeps many of the loud mouth troublemakers away from the match. These bums are the ones that start fights make bets they can't pay off and so on. Also few dog men are willing to get up early and work their dog, so you have an advantage if you worked your dog at this time of the day.

PIT WEIGHT

A dog's correct pit weight is that weight where he is at the lowest possible weight with no loss of strength or bite. It is one of the hardest things to learn in the game.

Feed and weigh your dog once per day. That means he goes 24 hours between meals. This way, your dog will be weighed with no feces in his bowels and will show his true weight. Your dog should have access to fresh watch at all times. Use a calibrated test weight to best your scales once or twice per week, so you know your scales are accurate.

It will take 20-30 days to determine your dog's correct pit weight. Decrease your dog's feed until his ribs are visible and his stomach is tucked up. The dog will be within 5 lbs. of his pit weight. Start the exercises and daily documentation of weight at this time.

Write down your dog's daily weight on a calendar as well us any work done that day. Walk your dog on a leash for 30 to 60 minutes per day. Gradually reduce this daily feed. Pay close attention to how your dog acts and how hard he pulls on these walks. This strength or the lack of it will determine when to stop reducing the dog's feed. When any loss of strength is noticed, quit reducing the feed. See if the dog's power return while maintaining the same volume of feed. If the strength returns, reduce the feed again and note the results on your calendar. Add food if your dog does not regain his power.

After 20-30 days your dog will fall on his correct weight. Experiment to see if the do can go a pound lower or higher and note the effect on your dog's strength. If there is any doubt about the correct weight, always go to the heavier half or pound.

BRINGING A DOG IN THE PIT RIGHT ON WEIGHT

Few fanciers except the most disciplined can bring a dog to the pit exactly on the agreed weight. However this can be done with dedication to the program outlined here.

You have been weighing your dog each day after walking him until he has defecated and urinated. This is before you work him. This daily weight is written on your calendar along with the daily exercises. As you approach match time, you need to know what your dog weighs at various times during the day. During the last week, weigh your dog three times per day. You will know what your dog weighs after eating, twelve hours after eating and twenty hours after eating. This way you will know if your dog is under, over, or right on the contracted weight no matter what time of the day he is weighed.

For example, your 45lb match dog would weigh 46 1/2 lbs. after eating, - 46 lbs. twelve hours later, -and 45 3/4 twenty hours after eating. He takes a dump and urinates and comes in at 45 lbs. If this dog weighed 45 1/2 lbs. twelve hours after eating, he'd probably weigh in at 44 1/2 lbs. or 1/2 lbs. under the contract weight.

In a situation like this you could feed a slice of wheat bread twelve hours after feeding and your dog would be exactly 45 lbs. at the weigh in.

The idea is to know if you need to feed your dog twelve hours prior to the match. You can only determine this if you know what your dog should weigh during the day.

If you are traveling by car to the match site, try to simulate this trip during the keep and note how far the travel effects your dog's weight. Some dogs gain weight because they are so relaxed, while others loose weight because they are nervous during the car ride. So put the dog in the car several times each week (in a sky kennel). Dogs are like humans- they do well when their schedule is predictable.

Be sure to have accurate scales and a 50 lb. certified test weight to prove that your scales are accurate. Check your scales with this test weight periodically. Sudden changes in temperature will change the accuracy of your scales as well as your dog's weight.

Always be sure to walk your dog so he has defecated and urinated prior to arriving at the match site. A dog will be too excited to empty out when he arrives at the site and will be over weight as a result.

If staying at a motel, I will walk my dog, weigh him, and drive to the match site (which is no more that 15 minutes by car). The dog will stay in the sky kennel until the weigh in, this way; he burns no energy until he steps in the pit.

If you arrive at the match site early, leave your dog in the sky kennel keeping him warm and comfortable. Do not let him shiver to keep warm, which wastes valuable energy. Bring extra blankets to wrap around the sky kennel if need be.

If your dog is completely empty but over weigh, do not attempt to work this weight off the dog. This will weaken your dog. If need be, pay the forfeit and go ahead with the match.

If your opponent is over weigh, encourage him to work off the extra weigh, which will weaken his dog. I will occasionally take the forfeit and go ahead with the match if the opponent is no more than 1/2 lb. over weight and my dog took the keep well.

Your dog should be defecating at the same time every day during the keep. He should have no problem emptying out on schedule just prior to the weigh in. If he won't dump, place a cotton tip applicator (Q-tip) up his rectum and he'll dump immediately.

It is twelve hours prior to the match and you have driven to a motel to sleep, expecting to match early the next morning. You weigh your dog (you know what he should weigh 12 hrs. before the weigh in) and he is 1/2 lb. under what he should weigh. Give him one slice of brown wheat bread and weigh again. If he is still under, give him another 1/2 to one slice and weigh again. Do not give any more food or water 12 hours prior to the weigh in.

If you are traveling it is good to bring your own water with you for your dog to drink. This way there is no possible reach in to a different water supply.

Follow this schedule closely and your will bring your dog in exactly on weight, well-rested and ready to go. This example involves using the 45-lb. match dog mentioned earlier. The match time is Saturday at 8:00am.

Feed wheat bread (one to two slices) to bring dog's weight up to what he normally weighs at 8pm each evening (46 lbs.)

I do not give my dog Azium (Dexamethazone) for several days prior to the show. I give one injection of Azium S.Q. (under the skin) 2-4 hours prior to the show. The dose varies with the size and style of the dog. The low ability dog gets a higher dose (4-mg) because he will probably win by out gaming or outlasting his opponent. Azium will cause a dog to urinate and can cause dehydration if used for more than 12 hours prior to the show.

I also do not use diuretics (drug that increases urination) to help a dog make his pit weight. Drugs of this group like Lasix dehydrate a dog, which will cause loss of strength and endurance. I never dehydrate my match dog. Even if your dog is lucky enough to win, he will be much more likely to die from low volume (hypovolemic) shock.

Make sure that your dog is in perfect health during the keep. He should be free of external parasites like fleas, ticks and ear mites. Clean your dog's ears with a Q-tip cotton swab. Ear mites cause discomfort and any offensive style dog should have absolutely clean ears.

The opponent of a hard mouth dog is certain to get on the ears in an effort to hold out your hard mouth dog. If those ears are inflamed due to ear mites, the pain caused by biting the ears will be severe.

Your match dog should also be free of internal parasites including tapeworms, which are transmitted by fleas. Use your local veterinarian to check stool samples for parasites and for any abnormality that develops during the keep. I use ivermectin liquid wormer to control hookworms, round worms, whipworms and heartworms. I prefer the cattle Ivermectin which comes in 30cc containers and can be injected (S.Q.) or given by mouth.

Droncit is the wormer of choice for tapeworms. The last worming check is given one week prior to the match (week seven).

The cattle Ivermection dose is 1/10 of a cc/ml per 20 lb. of body weight. So a 40 lb. dog would get .20 to .25 (1/4) cc of Ivermectin every thirty days.

Your match dog's living quarters should be clean and warm. Do not keep your dog near the other yard dogs. I try to isolate my match dog from any distractions so he can rest quietly after the work out.

It is important for the handler to spend as much time as possible with the match dog. Develop a strong handler0match dog bond, which will become significant during a hard match. Take your dog with you on drives into town and watch TV together.

Be careful when using anabolic steroids on bitches to keep them from come in heat. This can lead to an infected uterus or pyometra, which means that your bitch will never have puppies. Use 25 mg. every 2 weeks.

Do not use high doses of antibiotics just prior to the show. This will cause the normal intestinal bacteria to be killed resulting in diarrhea and weight loss. Keep a close eye on your match dog. If she seems slow or sluggish and she is not overworked, give a seven-day dose of amoxicillen. This is a good broad spectrum (kills most bacteria) type of antibiotic.

Again, I use one dose of Azium given S.Q. 2-4 hours prior to the show. Azium (Dexamethazone) helps prevent the tissue swelling that causes hypovolemic shock. For this reason, Azium can be very useful, particularly in dog's who rely on grameness to win, by outlasting their opponent. I always use 2 mg. of Azium on every dog. Dogs that are not high ability pit dogs get 4-6 mg. under the skin (S.Q.) two to four hours prior to the show.

If you want to use Anabolic Steroids, give injections of testosterone cypionate every two weeks. The final injection should be after the peak work out one-week prior the show. A good dose is 1/2-1 mg. per pound.

In addition to injections of Testosterone cypionate, give tablets of Anavar twice per day. Give one 2.5 mg. tablet in the morning and another in the evening. A large dog (48 lb. or larger) could take two tablets twice a day. Both of these anabolic steroids will increase power and aggressiveness without causing weight gain. I use a four week cycle when giving these drugs to my dogs.

Every day, your dog should be happy to see you and bursting with energy. If not, he is overtrained (stale) or is sick.

NUTRITION/FEEDING

I like to keep the feeding as simple as possible and do not use any of the powders sold to enhance performance.

Start with the best dry dog food you can buy. All of the best brands are good. I use Purina Pro Plan Performance dry dog food. I use corn oil as my fat source and brown wheat bread as the complex carbohydrate source. In addition I add 2-4 ounces of raw calves liver for the B vitamins and iron. These ingredients are inexpensive and effective.

A 45 lb. dog would get approximately 2-3 cups of dry Pro Plan Performance, 2-4 ounces of raw calf's liver, two slices of wheat bread with one tablespoon of corn oil poured on each slice of bread. This is fed once a day after the dog has cooled down from his work out. The feeding should be at the same time of day as the match. If the match is at 6am, then all meals are fed around that time.

NEVER feed simple sugars like candying, syrup or simulating products, they will cause the dog to fight hard for 10-20 minutes because of the high blood sugar level. After this time the sugar will be broken down causing the dog to loose his strength and energy. This is called a sugar high and sugars crash. STP's CH. Bonnie lost her 5th match into "Smiley and me" because of this mistake.

When you weigh your dog twelve hours prior to the match and he is lighter than expected, feed wheat bread to bring him up to the correct weight as previously mentioned. Carbohydrates like bread can be absorbed in twelve hours. It takes longer for fats to be absorbed, so no fat should be in the feed after, the last mains feeding 24 hours prior to the show.

When matching in cold weather, you can feed more carbohydrates than normal. The high carb feed will cause the dog to fight at a faster pace than normal and possibly "run hot". The cold temperature should make it easier for your dog to fight at a fast pace and not "run hot". In hot weather, decrease the amount of carbohydrate and use more fat in the diet. The fat is a less intense, long duration energy source, more suited for warm weather.

You can buy calves liver in a supermarket or from a butcher. Cut the liver into o2-4 ounce slices and wrap them in plastic wrap and freeze. Put one slice of liver out to thaw per day, so it will be ready at feeding time.

Do not let your match dog chew animal bones because it blunts their teeth and bone pieces become lodged in the dog's throat or intestines. Work them on the hide or give them large "rawhide bones" sold in stores.

This diet and the nutrient sources do not change during the keep. Any variation in diet can cause diarrhea, so avoid changing your feed at all cost.

EXERCISE IN THE KEEP

My keep places a priority on strength training which is different from many keeps which works strictly on endurance. This program will improve both strength and endurance. It will attempt to avoid "staleness" by utilizing a variety of exercises and plenty of rest days. The variety of exercise will keep the dog from getting bored and keep him trying to do his best work.

I divide the exercises into either strength or endurance training and alternate these routines, here are some examples:

STRENGTH TRAINING

*Walking the dog from a leash-leash walking

*Dog pulls a chain while you walk beside him -chain pulling

*Dog runs while pulling chains next to you, your car or bicycle.

ENDURANCE TRAINING

*Treadmill-cat mill-jenny-turn table
*Running from a leash next to your car or bicycle
*Dog sprints after Frisbee or softball
*Swimming

Fighting the hide (I don't classify hide working)

Strength training will give your dog the power to drive into his opponent and obtain the hold he wants. It also helps him dominate his opponent by shaking and overpowering him.

Always do strength training every other workout to allow muscles to recover and rebuild. After a strength work out, give the next day off or do endurance training. Think of strength training like weight lifting for humans, which will cause muscles damage if used on consecutive days. Different types of strength training develop different muscles even though the exercise seems similar.

An example would be a dog pulling chains and a dog dragging you while on a leash. The resistance the dog is pulling against is coming from different angles, resulting in the development of different muscles. So much the types of strength and endurance training are important not only to develop various muscles but also to keep the dog from getting bored.

Endurance training will keep your dog from getting tired during the match. A dog will quit due to exhaustion before they will quit due to punishment received from a hard biter. So obviously, endurance training is the base of a good keep. You will gradually increase your dog's endurance until the peak or maximum work portion, which is seven days before the match.

I recommend that your walk you be dog from a leash during the first two weeks of the keep. Start at ten to fifteen minutes per walk and work up to one hour per walk. This toughens up the dog's pads and tones his muscles. So you leash walk for a two week pre-keep and condition for a six-week total for a total of eight weeks.

I recommend writing down all conditioning information on a daily calendar. Information included would be daily weight, type of work and length of time. Do this work, any medication given (wormers/steroids/etc.) and any abnormalities noted.

I make up my own calendars on Xerox 14 x 17-copy paper. This documentation will be a valuable reference to note your dog's progress or to look back upon to see what keeps worked the best for which dog.

I have had success having my dogs pull chains using the following set up. The dogs wear a 2-inch wide collar. Attached to the collar is a 5-6 foot thick cotton or nylon rope. On one end is a heavy snap, which is clipped on the dog's collar. On the opposite end is a metal ring about 3 inches in diameter. Chains of recorded weight can be attached or removed from this ring.

* 10 lb. chain/12 lb. chain/5 lb. chain.

I purchased these materials at hardware stores.

I try to condition my dog to his style of fighting. For example I do interval training (short periods of intense work followed by rest on less intense work) on dogs that fight at a very fast pace. These barnstorming dogs need to get accustomed to this type of training (like 10-30 second wind sprints) other wise; they will run hot during the match. A good number of Zebo and Bullyson bred dogs that I conditioned, were able to barnstorm their opponents and then slow down and barnstorm again. The interval training prepared them for this type of fighting.

Wind sprints can be done on the treadmill, during roadwork or while pulling chains. Sprints are very hard on a dog's paws so make sure they are in good shape prior to sprinting your dog. Because dogs become tired of interval training I save it until later in the keep. Your dog's paws probably can not take the stress of interval training until late in the keep anyway.

All exercise and the length of workouts can be adjusted to suit the dog. For example, a dog might be so powerful that the weights listed for pulling, might not be enough to ensure good workouts. In this case, you would increase the weight of the chains. Some dogs will not pull chains, so use another exercise. Try to use exercise that the dog enjoys and eliminate those that the dog dislikes. Dogs should enjoy their workouts.

Never work a dog until he is exhausted. When the dog is tired and gasping for breath, he's had enough work. I like to stop the work out before this point. Give the dog a chance to walk around to cool off and give as much fresh water as he wants to drink.

I often combine different exercises in one workout. Try to go from one exercise to the next with a minimum of rest so the work out is continuous. Your dog will not get a rest during the match, so he should go through the work out in similar fashion.

Changing the types of workout as well as the location will help your dog to enjoy the work. Dogs enjoy variety in their exercises, just like we do. So do road works and chain pulling in different locations if possible.

The amount of work gradually increases until the peak workout which is one week prior to the show. Always give your dog a rest day after a hard workout so he can recover and get stronger. After the peak workout, the work dramatically decreases during that last week.

I like to have my dogs pull chains because it increases my dog's power. As a result, my dog have usually been stronger than their opponents have. Walking a dog from a leash also puts strength into a dog. However chain pulling is a more efficient use of this time. Dogs normally pull on the leash for the first 10-20 minutes and then walk beside the conditioner. A dog pulling chains pulls the weight during the entire walk. Offensive dogs use a lot of energy driving into an opponent and will tire quickly unless they are accustomed to this sort of stress. Chain pulling simulates this situation.

Do not run or chain pull a dog on asphalt roads. Use dirt roads or grass fields, which will keep your dog's paws intact. Never do strength training on consecutive days. This is like weight lifting for humans and will excessively tear down muscle. Alternate strength training with endurance training or rest days.

Lazy workers will work hard if worked along side another dog. I have used non bulldog pets and young unstarted bulldogs, which run loose while my match dog pulls chains. Several devastating dogs like McGee's "Panther" Mike's "Beast" and Super Gnat's "Smiley" put out maximum effort during workouts when worked with another dog.

No matter how lazy the dog, there is always some form of exercise that the dog will like. Tar Heel Matt's 2 x winner Gigit did not like to pull chains on a walk. However she loved to run her kennel chain fussing at other dogs. So I put Gigit on a huge 20-foot chain and timed her on my watch as she drug the chain all around, fussing at the other dogs. Gigit was only a 31 1/2-32 lb. bitch.

Some dogs would not work the hide. So I'd take a dog they despised and let that dog work the hide while my match dog watched this 20 feet away in the cab of my truck. After lavishly praising the dog on the hide, I'd let my match dog take a turn at hide working. Invariably they started to enjoy hide work.

I set the height of the hide by moving the nylon rope up or down. The knots in the rope get stuck in the snap. No metal is neat the dog's mouth. The height is set so the dog's front legs are off the ground while he is holding and fighting the hide. This forces the dog to work, using his neck, back and hind legs (just like in a match). A garage door spring gives the dog enough resistance, but stretches enough not to yank out a dog's teeth when he pulls back hard on the hide. The garage door spring can be attached to a tree limb or fastened to a ceiling beam in your basement.

HANDLING

The key to being a good handler is to stay near your dog and remain alert during the match. It is just that simple. Being able to leap around the pit does not ensure being a good handler.

If you were in a prizefight, you would want some company in the ordeal. Dogs are pack animals just like we are and benefit from having a friend nearby. Always stay near your dog and you will notice if he is fanged (bit through his lip by his K-9 teeth).

You have developed a strong bond with your dog because of all the time you spent together during the keep. This bond will enable you to reassure your dog and control the pace at which your dog fights. Always use the same words of encouragement during the match that you have used during the keep (i.e. good boy! etc.) Encourage your dog in an excited manner only if he has a deep (not a skin hold) hold on his opponent. Otherwise just stay where he can see you and talk in a calm, soothing voice.

Constantly encouraging your dog will cause him to fight at a very fast pace and he will fight himself off his feet in twenty minutes.

If your dog is fanged he can not bite hard because he is biting into his own lip every time he closes his mouth. Notice this immediately and inform the referee. The referee will verify that the dog is fanged and then attempt to unfang the dog while they are still in hold. If this can not be done, the referee will order the dog's separated and the handler will unfang his dog. I use a ballpoint pen, which I slide along the dog's gum and push down, freeing the entrapped lip. Once a dog has been fanged or had it's muscle bitten, it is more likely to get fanged again due to the swelling of the dog's lips. (If your dog gets fanged in rolls, he will get fanged in a match) Azium will help prevent a "lippy" dog from getting fanged because it controls swelling. Ask a knowledgeable friend to also watch for your dog getting fanged. With both of you looking, your dog will be less likely to have to fight, biting into his own lip.

When a dog turns its head away from it's opponent, it is a turn and should be pointed out to a referee. The referee will decide if a turn was committed and either recognize or not recognize it. If recognized, the handlers can handle their dogs when they are out of hold. Stay in position near your dog so a handle can be made once a turn has been recognized.

If you have a good scratching dog who is getting bit hard, you would call a turn on your own dog to get the scratching started. The same would be true if your dog's endurance was not good, and he could benefit from a 30-second rest in the corner.

Handling skills can be developed and practiced during rolls. You will learn how to crouch, set your feet and be ready to handle without bumping or tripping your dog. I handle by approaching the dog from the rear picking up his neck and chest with my left hand and lower body with my right hand. Grab the dog gently; lift with your legs and turn away from the other dog as you move toward the other dog. Continue to spin away from the other dog so your dog will not get bitten. This will embarrass the other handler. Never snatch your dog or grab him roughly. The motion should be smooth and gentle.

Face your dog in the corner, stand him up on all four legs and let him breathe as you check his lips and sponge him down. Do not crouch all over your dog; let him breath and talk positively to him.

If your opponent is scratching hard, release your dog so he won't get smashed in the corner. If your opponent is hesitating on his scratch, hold you're dog as still as possible. Any movement will encourage your opponent to complete his scratch.

I wear the same general color as my dog (light dog--light overalls; dark dog--dark clothes). After a long match, a dog will not be able to distinguish the opposing dog from the handler and will see one blob in the opposite corner. Bulldogs will generally not scratch to a human so there is an element of illusion here.

If possible, try to handle your dog when he feels good about the match. For example, if your dog's nose is getting chewed, try to wait until he gets out of it, and works his own hold before you handle.

Pay no attention to the crowd. Concentrate on your dog the entire time. If the match is not going well, do not get discouraged because your dog will read your feelings and get discouraged as well. Just stay where your dog can see you and gently encourage him. He will weather the storm and come back to win. However if you give up on your dog, he will give up too.

If your dog can not win, don't leave him down to take a killing; pick him up, because your wager is already lost. There's no sense in loosing a valuable dog as well.

If your dog is driving into his opponent, but can't get a good hold your can help your dog. When the opponent is driven into a corner by your dog, block the opponent's escape by cutting off the route the dog would normally use. Just get in the way and create an illusion to make the opponent's dog think he is trapped. Be prepared to move out of the way since you can not block or even touch the other dog. Try to create the illusion that the other dog is boxed in the corner.

Always be polite to the other handler. You will be able to get away with more rule bending that way. Always try to get the match over with as soon as possible, because the tide can change at any minute.

It's good to handle with a strategy in mind. Will your dog benefit from getting the scratching started? Or will he do better with no scratching at all? Is the best plan to try to get in some heavy shots very early in the match or is it best to outlast and outgame the other dog? This strategy determines how you handle.

When entering the pit after the weigh in, make sure that your dog sees his opponent and is ready to go. If your dog does not know what is happening, the opponent dog will rush a cross and get a damaging hold before your dog knows what hit him. I carry my dog across the pit wall and walk to center pit letting my dog see his opponent. Walking backwards, I move to my corner. I never face my dog in the corner until after the dogs are released.

If your opponent releases his dog before the referee's signal, wait until the last second and lift your dog straight up in the air. The opponent's dog will slam into the corner possibly breaking his teeth. This is at the start of a match and not during regular scratches.

Some handlers will release their hard biter early to gain an unfair advantage on your dog. You turn their attempt at cheating to your advantage.

Signed- Deputy Barney Fife

______________________________________________________

By Fat Bill

Training or condition a Pit Bull dog for show or for combat is an individual effort. Your success will depend upon the amount of time and effort you are willing to spend on your dog. This keep is based upon the idea that anyone can bring a dog up to, say, 50% of his potential for strength and endurance. A top amateur can train a dog to 75%, while a top professional can consistently show dogs at around 90% - or more of their potential. This method will take you step-by-step through a complete training cycle for a combat dog.

CONDITIONING

It is my theory that if dog A and dog B are equal in natural ability and gameness and dog A has been better prepared (conditioned) for his fight than dog B, then dog A should win the match; and he will 9 times out of 10. In this keep we will try to do everything possible to help our dog's chances of winning while not doing anything to hurt him in any way. I believe that, in training, if you do 10% or 15% more for your dog than your opponent does for his, then you will win-at least 4 times out of 5. 1 might add that it is the little things that count in the long run. You must follow the general formula of this keep, if you wish to see the maximum benefit and the best results.

SCHOOLING

Your dog has to learn to fight and even though he has a lot of natural desire he needs practice to make perfect. Start rolling him 10 minutes at a time at 15 or 16 months and then every 6 weeks thereafter. Every other time add 5 more minutes to the roll so that at 2 years he goes 25 minutes. By this time your dog will have enough experience to know for sure what's going on.

TESTING

There is only one good way to test your dog. At 26 or 27 months roll him into a dog bigger than him for 30 minutes then put a fresh dog on him for about 1 0 minutes and scratch them 4 or 5 times. If your dog acts good and scratches good through this then he is ready for a match.

FEEDING AND WEIGHT

It is best for the dog and easier on your pocket book to keep your dog within 3 or 4 pounds of his fighting weight all the time. Excess weight and fat just strain the heart and vascular system. If your dog is more than 3 pounds over match weight, then prior to the keep you should put him on a low fat, high protein diet. Weigh your dog each day just prior to feeding. Never try to take off more than one pound per week. Any more will weaken him. Your feed should consist of 1/4 to 1/2 pound of lean meat and cottage cheese and 1-1/2 to 2 1/2 cups of Purina protein dog feed once per day, depending on the size of the dog. Neck meat off of a bull is the best meat you can get. Always feed the meat in big pieces so it will take longer to pass through the dog. Quite often you can find an animal by-products factory in your area. These places pick up fresh, dead or crippled livestock from farmers, and you can buy fresh beef or horsemeat at around . 10 or.12 cents a pound. Never feed your dog more than he will eagerly eat. If for some reason he doesn't eat eagerly, take the feed away until his next scheduled feed -- this will bring his appetite around. Always weigh or measure the feed. No guesswork. If you weigh the meat and measure the dry feed, then as you weigh your dog each day, you can increase or decrease his feed to control his weight. Do not try to fight your dog too thin as it will weaken him. Always watch the dog's stool every day for any unusual signs such as blood or diarrhea. His stool will give you a daily indicator of his general health. Always keep fresh water available to the dog. Bottled mineral water is also very good for him. Allow your dog to cool out after working him before giving him any water.

Feeding at night is the best, as a general rule. Most matches are at night and it is important for your dog to be empty at the time of the match. No feed the last 24 hours before a match. No water the last 12 hours. Try to be as regular as possible about the time of feeding. In hot weather your dog will eat better at night when it is cool.

Give your dog a One-A-Day vitamin + Iron and one table spoon of Clovite conditioner in his feed each day.

Wash his feed bowl before you feed each day and give him fresh water every day.

WORK

Before you start the keep you should give your dog several days or even 2 or 3 weeks of 10 or 15 minutes workouts. Either roadwork or on a treadmill is fine. This will get him used to working and will toughen his feet. Always pay careful attention to his feet for cuts, bruises, or for wearing his pads thin. I like to paint his pads with Bonocain until they get tough. Bonocain is also good for any injuries to his pads.

Always avoid over-working your dog. If he gets overly tired or starts breathing rough and straining during a work out, stop and walk him until his breathing becomes normal and easy. As you gradually increase his work, your dog will get a little more exhausted, but he should take the amount of work in this keep with no difficulty. If the situation arises that he can't take the daily increases, give him the amount of work he can take for a few days. He will soon be ready to get back on schedule. Remember too, dogs have their bad days just like humans. If he doesn't act really eager during a workout, rest him that day. That will sharpen him back up.

Hand walking is one of the best ways to get your dog in top condition. It is a little harder on the trainer, but it really pays off in the pit. You cannot overwork your dog by walking him. if you have the time, up to 5 miles per day is ideal. Always walk your dog 1/2 mile before and after each workout. This is the least amount of walking you can get by with and still get top condition.

The amount of work called for in this keep will bring your dog to a peak of condition. But if your dog runs especially hard, you may have to give him a little less work. If you have a lazy dog, it will just take a lot of patience on your part. If you have a lazy dog, you can let him run after a cat one day and a chicken the next. Or you can experiment around and possibly find some other animal he likes especially well.

This work schedule is the most desirable but you should be flexible enough to fit it to each individual dog according to his ability. Remember, some dogs just have a lot more natural wind than others. This schedule is listed both in miles and in minutes on a treadmill. If you use a mill, it is very important that it runs free and doesn't make your do pull too hard.

FIRST WEEK:

Sunday - No work.

In the afternoon give him a 2 cc injection of Combiotic and 2 tablespoons of Milk of Magnesia

Monday - 3 miles or 15 minutes

1/2 teaspoon B-15

Tuesday - 3 1/2 miles or 18 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15, 1 /2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 4 miles or 21 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Thursday - 4 1/2 miles or 24 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday 5 miles or 27 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15, 1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Saturday 5 1/2 miles or 30 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

SECOND WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Monday - 6 miles or 33 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Tuesday - 6 1/2 miles or 36 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 7 miles or 39 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Thursday - 7 1/2 miles or 42 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday - 8 miles or 45 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Saturday - 8 1/2 miles or 48 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

THIRD WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B-15

Monday - 9 miles or 51 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Tuesday - 9 1/2 miles or 54 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-1 5, 1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 10 miles or 57 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Thursday 10 1/2 miles or 1 hour

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday 11 miles or 1 hr. 3 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone

Saturday 11 1/2 miles or 1 hr. 6 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

FOURTH WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B-15, 2 cc Combiotic

Monday - 12 miles or 1 hr. 9 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Tuesday - 12 1/2 miles or I hr. 12 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-1 5. 1/2 cc male hormone, one 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 13 miles or I hr. 15 min.

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Thursday - 13 1/2 miles or 1 hr. 18 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday - 14 miles or 1 hr. 21 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Saturday - 14 1/2 miles or I hr. 24 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

FIFTH WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Monday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 27 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Tuesday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone

1/2 cc B-12 (This will be the last injection of B-12)

Wednesday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Thursday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-1 5

Friday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1 Tsp. B- 15, 1/2 cc male hormone

Saturday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1 Tsp. B-15

SIXTH WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1 Tsp. B-15

Monday 10 miles or 1 hr.

Tuesday 10 miles or I hr.

Wednesday 5 miles or 30 minutes

Thursday Hand walk 3 miles

1 Tsp. B-15

Friday Hand walk 2 miles

1 Tsp. B-15, Approximately 24 hours before the match give 1

cc Male Hormone

Saturday - Rest and quiet

3 hours before the match give 1 Tsp. B-15

1 hour before the match insert a glycerin suppository in the dog's rectum to be sure he empties out. Hand walk slowly until time to wash your dog.

This keep is based on a Saturday night fight. If you fight on Friday, start one day earlier; for a Sunday fight, one day later.

IMPORTANT NOTES

If you must travel your dog over 100 miles, you should stop every 100:miles and hand walk your dog 8 or 1 0 minutes.

During the keep you should take your dog for a ride in the car once or twice each week, taking him for a longer ride each time. This will get your dog used to traveling and will make the ride to the match a lot easier on him.

If you have to travel over 300 miles, you should go a day early so your dog will get a one-day rest before the match.

Never try to match or condition a wormy dog. He must be free of parasites. If your dog has had Hookworms, it will be at least 3 months before he is fully recovered. Hookworms hurt both his blood count and his wind.

Vitamin B-1 2 will cause your dog to overheat if used the last 1 0 days before the match.

If you use a treadmill, always stay with him during his workouts. Don't go eat supper or watch TV. Remember anything can go wrong. Do not match your dog too light with this keep. It is better to match a pound heavier than a pound lighter. All injections are in the thigh muscle with a 1/2 inch 26 gauge needle. Shoot in the left leg on Tuesday and the right leg on Friday or vice versa. Always wash your opponent's dog to be sure you don't get your dog poisoned. Buy yourself a rule book and study it so you will know the rules well. During work outs, talk to your dog; praise him and encourage him, Pet him often. Remember, the more your dog likes you and trusts you, the longer and harder he will fight for you.

IN CONCLUSION

There are no great secrets in conditioning. Any dog fighter that does his own conditioning can tell you that the only secret is dedication.
______________________________________________________

Don Mayfield's Keep

When I first got into the dog game and worked my first dog I worked him with roadwork and walk. I showed up with a top conditioned dog and won in 1 hour, and 10 minutes. The next dog I worked was with a treadmill plus roadwork and walk. She too, was in good shape and won in 1hour and 15minutes, if I remember correctly. I lost with one the same day but it was not because of my conditioning.

The next thing I found out when working a dog is that they can be put in shape most anyway a person sees fit. Since I was working on a job most of the time, the next thing I started working on was an easy way to work a dog. I had seen everyone else's way of working a dog by now, but I had something else in mind. I wanted to work a dog like a wild dog would work if he had to hunt and kill his food, more so like the big cats do, or like an eagle. They make their kill when they are very thin with no fat whatsoever on them. This is the time when most wild animals kill for food. Their blood count is on a natural high and there is no fat to make them breathe hot. This is when they are their sharpest and make their kill. Their condition at the time of the kill will not return until they are ready for their next kill. In between times the wild will tend to get fat and slow and lazy and they will have miss after miss until they lose all their fat and get sharp, hunting and working their bodies into shape.

In my way of thing the cat mill was the machine I was looking for. Frank Fitzwater showed me his, he had a big wagon wheel on a hub with a 2x4 sticking out about 12 feet with a chain on it and another 2x4 in front of it with a box attached. Frank told me that it was a cat mill but nobody he knew would use one because they were afraid they would half kill their dog and that you could never get the dog to the pit in one piece.

At this time every dogman I had met worked his dog with a harness on them and myself, being a newcomer, also worked my dogs with a harness on them. Besides it looked good on a dog. A harness has it's own place for the dog. And the only place I found to use it is when taking a picture.

I liked the catmill I had seen a franks' but I could plainly see that it was very out-dated. I then went home and made one with 20 feet from the center of the track. I still nearly killed the first dog I worked on it even at 20 feet. I then dug out my track and put a bank three feet high on the outside of the track. This did the trick and when my dog would run hard on the mill he would run up on the bank. When he slowed down he would walk or trot in the bottom of the track. I also had a drain to keep the water out of the track.

This catmill had its downfalls but for ten years it had every top conditioner in the game asking me how I worked my dogs. The first ones were Leo Kinard and George Saddler, in fact they both asked me the same day. That was the day I won with the first dog I had ever worked on it. The match went 2 hrs. 16 min. with my dog scratching 27 times and never taking a deep breath or never off his feet. This same dog had won his last match when worked by his owner Frank Fitzwater but was labeled a cur, something Heinzl had bred to sale and make a little feed bill money. This dog had been tried when 2 ½ years old and would not fight. Frank bought this dog known as Fitzwaters' Goldie for 15.00, as they were going to kill the dog. When I won with Goldie he was over 7 years old. Goldie was the sire of the Zeke dog, which was the sire of the Indian's Bolio, the dog Pat Patrick stole.

I worked dogs on this catmill for 10 years and the trouble I had keeping feet under a dog, you would never believe. So, from then on I started looking for something that would out do the catmill.

I went a little to the treadmill until this welder friend of mine called maverick and myself built a catmill 57 feet from one side of the track to the other, with both sides of the mill 28 ½ feet from the center and both sides the same so the weight would be the same. Wit this mill I was able to improve my conditioning but I was still having trouble keeping feet under the dog. After trying many different things, I found the only thing to do would be to put something in the track like hay and let it rot. It made a good soft track. I was still having trouble keeping shoulders under my dogs and with this mill I was knocking out more than before. The mill is free wheeling and when a dog runs on it hard, then slows down the mill will keep on going fast and will go over the dog pulling the shoulders right out of joint thus, crippling them for a few days this is about the time I found out what a harness was good for so I went over to a good wide working collar. This time my dogs started showing up with a much stronger neck and a faster mouth. I was beginning to see more and more of what I was looking for. For a while I would quit using my common senses and I would walk my dog from two to five miles before I would work him. This took a lot of time, so something had to go. This is when I quit walking my dogs from two to five miles and started walking them about one mile with a 100 foot light weight rope and the dogs would walk about the same. I then started walking my dogs less and less until I got to where I'm at now. About 25 yards… I found that all the talk I had heard about walk your dog or he would not be in shape was about to become a thing of the past. With the catmill keep this is true.

At this time I had worked three dogs for one show. I then worked five dogs for one show, then six dogs, then six dogs again, with all the dogs showing up in top condition. Out of 20 dogs worked on my catmill only 3 lost. About this time, I started noticing a catmill in almost everyone's' yard. More and more people coming by and taking notes about the catmill and the keep I was using with it. I learned a lot from other people like George saddler. He told me to work a dog in the same way for 3 days before increasing his work again. By listening and understanding it helped me with my keep. Earl Tudor once told me that the best thing for a tired dog is rest, this too helped my keep. Later you will see how two small bits of advice from the two top conditioners ever in the dog game helped me with my keep, after I had understood what I had learned from them.

When you start working a dog for a match, you need 10 weeks of good work to have him ready and fit. You never go to a vet the entire keep you start out by worming your dog for whips and hooks, then 5 days later then worm his for tapes and rounds plus hooks. 5 days after that worm him again for whips and hooks, then 5 days later tapes and round plus hooks, this should have him clean. You will worm him one more time at 2 ½ weeks before the match, each time you worm the dog give him 3 cc. Combiotics and when you worm your dog make it after you have worked him then rest him the next day, giving him dry dog chow with castor oil (one ounce over his feed) and always have fresh water for him to drink.

Start your dog out slow on the mill with a coon in a small wire pin about 2 feet from the dog. We like to use coon because a coon is not scared of a dog and they enjoy the ride on the mill and like to tease the dog. Keep a milk jug in front of your dog letting it bounce just out of reach for the dog. The kind of jug I am talking about is a one-gallon plastic jug, tied with a good rope from the front arm where the coon is in the pin. Put this jug on the mill after you get your dog working 30minutes.

Have your dog on his pit weight; he should look on the side with no fat showing. His head should be full with no bones showing have your dogs feet in good shape by making a mixture of one part linseed oil, one part turpentine and one part burnt motor oil. With a paintbrush paint the feet every time you take the dog off the mill. Use corona ointment, or any good antiseptic lubricant in a salve form, then put this salve on the feet every time you put your dog on the mill and every day afterwards, even a few times a week when he is resting.

You should be up to 30 minutes now, jump your dog up 30 minutes every other day till you get him up to 6 hours. Give your dog a 30 min rub down every time you take him off the mill. The way a dog should be rubbed down is on a small table, a little over waist high. Stand behind the dog at the end of the table and start by rubbing the front legs down, from the shoulders down, then take your right hand going under the right side of the dog to the front of the left shoulder pulling back down the chest all the way back to the top right side of the top right stifle up high in the gut. Do the same with the other hand, going to the opposite side every other time. From they're down the back, from behind the ears to the tip of the tail, and down the side of the rib cage. This way the hair grows. The back legs are the next place to rub down. Rub down the way the hair grows, from the top to the bottom of the leg. You should give each area about 5 minutes. Last, come to the head. Turn the dog around; rub the head just like the rest of the body, the way the hair grows. Have a mixture of 1 pint water and two tablespoons of powdered ammonia alum, dip your fingers into the mixture and with wet fingers rub the inside of the lips and gums. Trying to get as much as possible on the inside of the top lip and gums with the dog swollen as little as possible. When you rub the outside of the top lip, rub from the nose to the ear with wet fingers using the alum mixture. When rubbing your dog, rub with the light weight of the hand, using baby oil every fourth day, getting the hands wet with oil then rubbing then dry, covering the dog in oil, keeping away from the eyes. Once a week pour about 3 cc's of hydrogen peroxide solution into each ear then let him shake his head do the same with rubbing alcohol. Make his last rub down with baby oil 5 days prior to the match. With his last rub down, two days prior to the match, stop the alum mixture. His work should also stop five days before the match. With his last week of work jumping up to 8 hours or even 10 hours, trying to have your dog tired 5 days in front of his match, and when I say tired I like to see them not wanting to run out of the dog house to meet you.

On the eleventh and ninth days before the match give them 2 cc's of combiotics and cut work in half. On the tenth and ninth day give first shot after work and on the eleventh day before the match. When the dog is up to about two hours take the plastic jug and let the rope out so the dog can reach it. Start this after the dog has been working about one hour, teasing the dog with it, trying to get the dog to take a hold of it, as when they take a hold it should not be close to the ground. The dog will then start shaking and backing up with the jug. You should talk to your dog for around a min or two just like you were talking to him in the pit, watching his eyes as he will watch yours. Then letting him start to tire, never letting any slack in the rope. The dog will start walking forward to keep him from losing the jug, (by now most dogs won't need a coon in front of them, just the jug) start letting your dog have 30 min of jug work every other day in his work, letting the jug bounce close to his nose so he may catch it a few times a work out. Working for at least 30 min and work up to about 1 hour with this jug in his mouth. End this work 5 days prior to the match.

The next work is to have your dog on a cable run from one tree limb to another if possible, about 300 feet apart, with a heavy chain of about 20 feet long and the cable 10 feet from the ground, after the 20 foot chain has been clamped with a rivot. Swivels should be at both ends of the chain, and a ring big enough for a 2 inch collar to go through, a good leather collar with baby oil put on it every week to keep it safe. Have this setup as close to the mill as possible about 7 to 8 feet would be perfect, but make sure that it is as close as they can get. Have a good house for your dog with a good shade where he can get cool air and fresh water under hi shade. His house should be far enough back that his chain will not hang on his house. Always have good bedding in his house and a cool shade for the hot days. Every other day from the jug work, take a coon tail on a short, light pole and work him up to 30 min after starting at 5 min a day. Keep the tail low to the ground with the dog at the end of his chain pulling out after the coon tail, with the heavy chain and cable pulling him back. Go from side to side making your dog move fast, then slow. Do this work for 15 min before his millwork and for 15 min after his millwork. Then work him up to 30 min before and after millwork. This work should be ended 6 days before the match.

The walk should never be any more than just far enough to get your dog to empty before each day's work and it will get shorter and shorter. When your dog empties get a stick and look through this dump. If you ever see blood on the outside wall, your dog will have whipworms. If it is blood running through the stool it is hookworms. If there are little white worms coming out of the stool, flat like, they are tapeworms. The stool should always be form never hard and never loose. After you check the stool, start walking your dog to the mill sending him on. Just like you would send a dog in a match. Always try to walk him as close to the mill so he may walk to the mill after he has empties. The feed should start with a good hi-protein dry feed about 2 cups at first with ¼ cup of wheat germ, ¼ a can mustard greens, a cup of corn bread, with vitamins of desiccated liver-tablets (7 ½ grains, start at 5 a day and work up to 15 a day) give one vitamin E (400iu) give one vitamin C (1000 milligrams) 4 papaya digestive aid, 1 iron with molasses. Try and have all your vitamins natural vitamins, you should add to your dry dog feed as much as need be. To hold you're dog at about 2 pounds over his pit-weight. Come off this vitamin E five days in front of the match. Add about 1/8 to ¼ a cup of water to his feed just enough to wet it, just before you feed.

Four weeks in front of the match start with his meat, good heavy beef like bull-neck, cut the meat into small chunks about ½ in square. Start with ½ lb and add up to 1/2 lb. To ¾ lb 5 days in front of the match. Always cut all the fat out of the meat. Use only red, lean meat. Sear the meat in as little as possible and pour this juice over the meat and mix. (Just so it will be wet going down, but dry when it gets to the stomach.

At least two times on your dogs;' rest day, get a big joint leg bone from the butcher, boil it in water for about 20 min, let it cool and cut your feed in half and give this bone after feeding. The next evening after feeding him ½ a feeding on his rest day, take the bone away from him. When feeding this bone always feed ½ feeding the day before the next day and give the bone that day. Then feed ½ feeding on the rest day. This bone should be fed, about 2 ½ weeks before the match.

The water should be put in front of the dog each morning, fresh and in a bucket. The first two weeks of work, walk your dog till he cools all the way after his work on the mill. After his rub down let him drink. After two weeks of work put the dog in front of his fresh water and let him drink as much as he wants to until 5 days before the match. Always feed dry so your dog will drink a lot of water. Always let him drink as soon as he comes off the mill after 2 weeks of work. Give one tablespoon of raw honey every three days over the feed.

This should bring everything up to 5 days in front of the match. In the next issue of pit pal I will explain the last week of keep. This will show you how to point a dog. The week that will let you know if you can do it or not.

For the first eight weeks give half a teaspoon of salt two times a week, make sure you give it in their feed two days in a row, then five days no salt, then two days salt. The last salt is to be given 14 days in front of the match.

To understand just what the salt will do to your temperament, go without salt in your food for 14 days, the eat salt over your food and drink lots of water for three days, your temperament will change from easy to get along with and very friendly to a short tempered, very grippe person the closer the fourteenth day comes around.

To understand what the salt will do to the blood is to understand what a high red-blood count is and what a low-red-blood count is. To know how to get a high red-blood count is to go without salt and your body will pull away from water and when your body pulls away from water it will start to dehydrate. Your blood will start to concentrate, as you will get a very high red-blood count. In order to get your red-blood count down low, eat salt for three days and drink a lot of water and you will see your red-blood count will go down as your body will take on water and once more you will have a smile on your face.

The reason for a high red-blood count is that the blood will be concentrated and that means more red-blood cells to go through the body to the lungs to cool off and back through the body to cool it off, so it will keep a dog from getting hot, as the hotter the body gets, the weaker it will get.

Another reason for a high red-blood count is the blood, when concentrated, the dog can get an artery cut and in just a few seconds the bleeding will stop because the blood is so pure it will seal, and stop the loss of blood.

So, to understand, this is a peak, that you must try and reach the last five days, is to understand what a person is talking about when he talks of drying a dog out. The last five days in front of the match your dog should be put into a crate and kept in a quiet, cool place (I keep mine in my bedroom). The water should be given to your dog by hand, and not left in front of him. He should have soft bedding in his crate, clean dry hay. He should weigh one and a half pounds to two pounds over his pit weight.

For the last 5 days the feed should start to change. Feed more red meat and less Purina high-protein and more wheat germ and cereal. Also, start cutting the mustard greens. The next to the last feeding should be not more than a half a cup of Purina high-protein, a half a cup of wheat germ cereal and a half a pound of red, lean meat. Cooked in no water. Should be seared on all sides, very rare, cut in one-inch cubes, with all vitamins.

The last feeding should be fed twenty-six hours before his match. Red, lean beef, cut in one-inch cubes with ¾ cup of wheat germ cereal with his vitamins. The meat should be seared in no water, very rare but, seared on all four sides with two tablespoons full of honey.

The dog should be walked four times a day for the first three of the last five days before the match. The first walk should be 30 min after daybreak. Walk two miles in a field with a fifteen-foot lead rope, so that the dog can walk slow and empty, taking his time. Then when starting back to the crate, walk behind him with a short lead rope of six to eight feet, letting him pull back to the crate, as you talk to him, sending him on. He should be walked the same, one hour before dark. He should be taken for a short walk of ½ mile between his first walk and his walk before dark. He should have his second short walk about two hours after dark. The last two days your dog should be walked the same four times, but no longer than ¼ of a mile in the morning and ¼ of a mile in the evening, before dark. The walk between the morning and the evening should be ¼ a mile, the same as the walk you take two hours after dark. But, on the day of the match, the dog should have his last ¼ of a mile walk one hour before his match. Five minutes before the match he should be given a very short walk to empty his kidneys. The walks the last two days, you should never send your dog on making him pull, try and have him save all the strength he can as he will need all of it at match time.

To understand the peak you are after from the feeding and the walking for the last five days is to understand the feed. The feed went from carbohydrates and protein to protein with just enough, so the dog will weigh in on weight, keeping the stool as firm as possible, as to much feed will make the stool loose and not enough feed will weaken him. To understand the reason for this walk is to understand fully the peak you are after. Have all the inners empty at match time.

To water a dog the last five days before the match you should give him water after his morning walk with a tablespoon full of honey in the water, letting the dog drink what you think he might need. To make weight, as he should be weighed after each walk and watered two times a day for the first two of the last five days before the match, the next two days water only one time a day making the last water 26 hours before the match. To understand the peak you are after when watering and feeding and weighing your dog after each walk, is to understand how much feed and water you put in your dog before the match, the last five days while he is resting take the water away from him slow letting his weight drop to right on pit weight. The day of the fight if your dog starts to drop under his weight, turn the hot water on in the shower, making the air very wet as the dog breathes the wet air his weight will go up, if your dog is loosing weight too slow you should turn on the air-conditioner so the air will be very dry, his weight will start to fall.

To understand condition and to see a body put into the best condition possible, is a thing of beauty. To put a body in this condition you have got to try and get as close to nature as you can, like we say about the eagle and the condition of his body, the eagle, scoring the blue skies, overlooking the land of the wild, his eyes open wide, looking for his prey as he feels the pain of hunger in his inners with his ears open wide he can hear the chatter of his mate, as she tries to content their offspring's, while they cry out from hunger. Then with the movement of an object from under the huge trees, he dives from instincts traveling at his top speed, turning his body from side to side, to miss the limbs of the huge trees sweeping down to killing a rabbit, as it sits very still with his ears cocked to hear the air being cut by an eagle. This is condition, this is survival the only way any living thing can put there bodies at there peak is to live by the law of the land your body must stay as close to it's peak or you will not survive to understand the meaning of the condition is to see every part of the body at it's peak. That is what you are after when you get a dog ready to fight for life or death.

Two small bits of advice from two of the top dog men in the dog game-increase the work and rest a tired dog. To understand this is to understand what a tired dog looks like when he is over worked and needs a day of rest.
______________________________________________________

Balkin Boy's Keep

FOREWORD

Training or condition a Pit Bull dog for show or for combat is an individual effort. Your success will depend upon the amount of time and effort you are willing to spend on your dog. This keep is based upon the idea that anyone can bring a dog up to, say, 50% of his potential for strength and endurance. A top amateur can train a dog to 75%, while a top professional can consistently show dogs at around 90% - or more of their potential. This method will take you step-by-step through a complete training cycle for a combat dog.

CONDITIONING

It is my theory that if dog A and dog B are equal in natural ability and gameness and dog A has been better prepared (conditioned) for his fight than dog B, then dog A should win the match; and he will 9 times out of 10. In this keep we will try to do everything possible to help our dog's chances of winning while not doing anything to hurt him in any way. I believe that, in training, if you do 10% or 15% more for your dog than your opponent does for his, then you will win-at least 4 times out of 5. 1 might add that it is the little things that count in the long run. You must follow the general formula of this keep, if you wish to see the maximum benefit and the best results.

SCHOOLING

Your dog has to learn to fight and even though he has a lot of natural desire he needs practice to make perfect. Start rolling him 10 minutes at a time at 15 or 16 months and then every 6 weeks thereafter. Every other time add 5 more minutes to the roll so that at 2 years he goes 25 minutes. By this time your dog will have enough experience to know for sure what's going on.

TESTING

There is only one good way to test your dog. At 26 or 27 months roll him into a dog bigger than him for 30 minutes then put a fresh dog on him for about 1 0 minutes and scratch them 4 or 5 times. If your dog acts good and scratches good through this then he is ready for a match.

FEEDING AND WEIGHT

It is best for the dog and easier on your pocket book to keep your dog within 3 or 4 pounds of his fighting weight all the time. Excess weight and fat just strain the heart and vascular system. If your dog is more than 3 pounds over match weight, then prior to the keep you should put him on a low fat, high protein diet. Weigh your dog each day just prior to feeding. Never try to take off more than one pound per week. Any more will weaken him. Your feed should consist of 1/4 to 1/2 pound of lean meat and cottage cheese and 1-1/2 to 2 1/2 cups of Purina protein dog feed once per day, depending on the size of the dog. Neck meat off of a bull is the best meat you can get. Always feed the meat in big pieces so it will take longer to pass through the dog. Quite often you can find an animal by-products factory in your area. These places pick up fresh, dead or crippled livestock from farmers, and you can buy fresh beef or horsemeat at around . 10 or.12 cents a pound. Never feed your dog more than he will eagerly eat. If for some reason he doesn't eat eagerly, take the feed away until his next scheduled feed -- this will bring his appetite around. Always weigh or measure the feed. No guesswork. If you weigh the meat and measure the dry feed, then as you weigh your dog each day, you can increase or decrease his feed to control his weight. Do not try to fight your dog too thin as it will weaken him. Always watch the dog's stool every day for any unusual signs such as blood or diarrhea. His stool will give you a daily indicator of his general health. Always keep fresh water available to the dog. Bottled mineral water is also very good for him. Allow your dog to cool out after working him before giving him any water.

Feeding at night is the best, as a general rule. Most matches are at night and it is important for your dog to be empty at the time of the match. No feed the last 24 hours before a match. No water the last 12 hours. Try to be as regular as possible about the time of feeding. In hot weather your dog will eat better at night when it is cool.

Give your dog a One-A-Day vitamin + Iron and one table spoon of Clovite conditioner in his feed each day.

Wash his feed bowl before you feed each day and give him fresh water every day.

WORK

Before you start the keep you should give your dog several days or even 2 or 3 weeks of 10 or 15 minutes workouts. Either roadwork or on a treadmill is fine. This will get him used to working and will toughen his feet. Always pay careful attention to his feet for cuts, bruises, or for wearing his pads thin. I like to paint his pads with Bonocain until they get tough. Bonocain is also good for any injuries to his pads.

Always avoid over-working your dog. If he gets overly tired or starts breathing rough and straining during a work out, stop and walk him until his breathing becomes normal and easy. As you gradually increase his work, your dog will get a little more exhausted, but he should take the amount of work in this keep with no difficulty. If the situation arises that he can't take the daily increases, give him the amount of work he can take for a few days. He will soon be ready to get back on schedule. Remember too, dogs have their bad days just like humans. If he doesn't act really eager during a workout, rest him that day. That will sharpen him back up.

Hand walking is one of the best ways to get your dog in top condition. It is a little harder on the trainer, but it really pays off in the pit. You cannot overwork your dog by walking him. if you have the time, up to 5 miles per day is ideal. Always walk your dog 1/2 mile before and after each workout. This is the least amount of walking you can get by with and still get top condition.

The amount of work called for in this keep will bring your dog to a peak of condition. But if your dog runs especially hard, you may have to give him a little less work. If you have a lazy dog, it will just take a lot of patience on your part. If you have a lazy dog, you can let him run after a cat one day and a chicken the next. Or you can experiment around and possibly find some other animal he likes especially well.

This work schedule is the most desirable but you should be flexible enough to fit it to each individual dog according to his ability. Remember, some dogs just have a lot more natural wind than others. This schedule is listed both in miles and in minutes on a treadmill. If you use a mill, it is very important that it runs free and doesn't make your do pull too hard.

FIRST WEEK:

Sunday - No work.

In the afternoon give him a 2 cc injection of Combiotic and 2 tablespoons of Milk of Magnesia

Monday - 3 miles or 15 minutes

1/2 teaspoon B-15

Tuesday - 3 1/2 miles or 18 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15, 1 /2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 4 miles or 21 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Thursday - 4 1/2 miles or 24 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday 5 miles or 27 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15, 1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Saturday 5 1/2 miles or 30 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

SECOND WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Monday - 6 miles or 33 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Tuesday - 6 1/2 miles or 36 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 7 miles or 39 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Thursday - 7 1/2 miles or 42 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday - 8 miles or 45 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Saturday - 8 1/2 miles or 48 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

THIRD WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B-15

Monday - 9 miles or 51 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Tuesday - 9 1/2 miles or 54 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B-1 5, 1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 10 miles or 57 minutes

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Thursday 10 1/2 miles or 1 hour

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday 11 miles or 1 hr. 3 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone

Saturday 11 1/2 miles or 1 hr. 6 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

FOURTH WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B-15, 2 cc Combiotic

Monday - 12 miles or 1 hr. 9 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Tuesday - 12 1/2 miles or I hr. 12 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-1 5. 1/2 cc male hormone, one 1/2 cc B-12

Wednesday - 13 miles or I hr. 15 min.

1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Thursday - 13 1/2 miles or 1 hr. 18 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Friday - 14 miles or 1 hr. 21 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12

Saturday - 14 1/2 miles or I hr. 24 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

FIFTH WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B- 15

Monday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 27 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Tuesday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone

1/2 cc B-12 (This will be the last injection of B-12)

Wednesday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-15

Thursday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1/2 Tsp. B-1 5

Friday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1 Tsp. B- 15, 1/2 cc male hormone

Saturday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.

1 Tsp. B-15

SIXTH WEEK

Sunday - Rest - 1 Tsp. B-15

Monday 10 miles or 1 hr.

Tuesday 10 miles or I hr.

Wednesday 5 miles or 30 minutes

Thursday Hand walk 3 miles

1 Tsp. B-15

Friday Hand walk 2 miles

1 Tsp. B-15, Approximately 24 hours before the match give 1

cc Male Hormone

Saturday - Rest and quiet

3 hours before the match give 1 Tsp. B-15

1 hour before the match insert a glycerin suppository in the dog's rectum to be sure he empties out. Hand walk slowly until time to wash your dog.

This keep is based on a Saturday night fight. If you fight on Friday, start one day earlier; for a Sunday fight, one day later.

IMPORTANT NOTES

If you must travel your dog over 100 miles, you should stop every 100:miles and hand walk your dog 8 or 1 0 minutes.

During the keep you should take your dog for a ride in the car once or twice each week, taking him for a longer ride each time. This will get your dog used to traveling and will make the ride to the match a lot easier on him.

If you have to travel over 300 miles, you should go a day early so your dog will get a one-day rest before the match.

Never try to match or condition a wormy dog. He must be free of parasites. If your dog has had Hookworms, it will be at least 3 months before he is fully recovered. Hookworms hurt both his blood count and his wind.

Vitamin B-1 2 will cause your dog to overheat if used the last 1 0 days before the match.

If you use a treadmill, always stay with him during his workouts. Don't go eat supper or watch TV. Remember anything can go wrong. Do not match your dog too light with this keep. It is better to match a pound heavier than a pound lighter. All injections are in the thigh muscle with a 1/2 inch 26 gauge needle. Shoot in the left leg on Tuesday and the right leg on Friday or vice versa. Always wash your opponent's dog to be sure you don't get your dog poisoned. Buy yourself a rule book and study it so you will know the rules well. During work outs, talk to your dog; praise him and encourage him, Pet him often. Remember, the more your dog likes you and trusts you, the longer and harder he will fight for you.

IN CONCLUSION

There are no great secrets in conditioning. Any dog fighter that does his own conditioning can tell you that the only secret is dedication
______________________________________________________

Finkle Winkle's Keep

(Finkle Winkle's Ch Dolly is shown in the picture)

DURING THE YRS INVOLVED IN THIS GREAT BREED I WORKED MANY TIMES A DOG TO HIS TRUE WEIGHT AND BEST SHAPE POSSIBLE, AND I MADE MANY MISTAKES AS WELL, BUT I GUESS, WITH THE MISTAKES IN MIND, THE KEEP WHICH I'LL SHARE WITH YOU'LL, IS A PROVEN ONE, IN THE BEST SENSE OF THE WORD, SINCE THIS SIMPLE KEEP DELIVERED ME, MANY A WINNER, WHOS NOT SELDOM, WINNING OVER THE OTHER ENTRY DUE THEIR BETTER SHAPE.

FIRST YOU MUST WORM YOUR DOG, 2 WEEKS BEFORE THE PRE-KEEP START, CLIP HIS TOENAILS AND GIVE HIM A WARM BATH AND WASH HIM GOOD WITH JODIUMSCRUB.

GO TO THE VET AND LETS CHECK THE DOG GOOD OUT, LIVER/KIDNEYS/BLOOD/STOOL, LETS CHECK IT OUT GOOD, IF THE DOG IS HEALTHY, THE GREEN LIGHT IS ON, ITS TIME TO CONDITION YOUR DOG NOW.

CHANGE HIS DAILY FEED TO THE USE OF A DRY-FOOD, SPECIAL MADE FOR THE NEEDS OF CANINE SPORTING ANIMALS, I MYSELF, USE EUKANUBA PREMINIUM, WORKS GOOD FOR MY DOGS.GIVE THE DOG, EXEPT SHORTLY AFTER HIS DAILY WORKOUT, ALL THE FRESH WATER HE'LL DRINK, DAY AND NIGHT.

PRE-KEEP-SO SIMPLE, 1ST WEEK, 6 TIMES A WEEK-

· 1 HOUR HANDWALKING, ON A LONG LEASH, IN A GOOD HARNESS, WALK ON DIFFERENT TYPES OF SOIL, GRASS, DIRTROADS, HILLS.AFTER EVERY WORKOUT,
· A 20 MINUTES RUBDOWN,
· FEED AND WATERING AFTER THE RUBDOWN AND
· REST THE DOG, YES THAT'S ALL.
·

GIVE HIM ONE DAY OF NO WORK AT ALL, AND DON'T RUB HIM AS WELL, ON SUCH A RESTDAY, YOU'LL AD SOME LESS FOOD TO HIS FEEDPAN.

SECOND WEEK, SAME O SAMO, ONLY 1.5 HOURS OF WALKING NOW, THAT'S ALL.

NOW THE DOG IS USED ON SOME WORK, WATCH HIM CLOSELY DURING THE WHOLE PROGRESS, IF HE'S LOOKING SORE, TIRED ETC.DON'T HESISTATE TO REST HIM A EXTRA DAY.

WE GONNA START NOW WITH 2 WEEKS OF BUILDING UP THE DOG, TO MADE HIM READY TO STAND THE PRESSURE AND STRESS, WHILE WORKED THE 5TH AND HEAVIEST WEEK OF TRAINING.

3TH WEEK

· MONDAY-5 MINUTES OF TREADMILL, AFTER A HOUR OF HANDWALKING, AFTER THE MILLWORK, 15 MIN.OF HANDWALKING,
· TUESDAY-2 HRS HANDWALK,
· WENSDAY-10 MINUTES MILLWORK,
· THURSDAY- 2 HOURS OF HANDWALK,
· FRIDAY-15 MIN.MILLWORK.
· SATURDAY-RESTDAY,
· SUNDAY- WE'LL START AGAIN.
·

ADD IN THE 3TH WEEK, 25 GRAMS OF BOILED RICE AND 25 GRAMS OF BOILED MEAT TO HIS DAILY DRYFEED AND 2 MULTI-VITAMINE TABS. 4TH WEEK-SAME O SAMO, ONLY YOU'LL AD MORE TIME/WORK LIKE THIS, TREADMILL-20-25-30 MINUTES, AT THE HANDWALKING ONLY DAYS, 2.5 HOURS OF HANDWALKING, AD NOW 50 GR.RICE AND MEAT TO HIS FEEDPAN & THE 2 TABS.

5TH WEEK-THE MOST HEAVIEST WEEK, 3 HOURS HANDWALKING, EXEPT AT HIS MILLWORK DAYS, TREADMILL-35-40-45, SATURDAY-REST TILL SUNDAY, FEED STAYS THE SAME, IF LOOSING TOO MUCH WEIGHT, AD SOME EXTRA DRYFEED. (Regular his weight through the feed pan as well).

6TH AND LAST WEEK, 10 MINUTES MILL -1.5 HRS-HANDWALKING-5 MINUTES MILL-1 HOUR HANDWALKING--30 MINUTES HANDWALKING, THEN REST PRIOR TO THE MATCH, AT MATCHDAY WALK HIM/HER OUT, EVERY 3 HOUR, JUST TO URINATE AND TO RELIEVE HIMSELF GOOD. AT THE 14TH DAY OF TRAINING, THE DOG MUST BE A HALF KG.ABOVE HIS TRUE SHOWWEIGHT, KEEP HIM LIKE THAT DURING THE ENTIRE KEEP, THE 2 FIRST RESTDAYS, AT THE END OF THE 6TH WEEK, DON'T GIVE MEAT/RICE.

LAST MEAL: 24 HRS BEFORE THE EVENT, TAKE HIS WATER AWAY 12 HRS BEFORE, GIVE HIM A HALF LTR OF BOILED CHICKENBOUILLON AS HIS LAST DRINK 12 HRS BEFORE.LAST MEAL 50GRMEAT 50GR RICE DRYFEED, NO TABS.

I AVOID ALL BITEWORK, JUMPING, HANGING, ETC.ETC.ALSO STEROIDS I SKIPPED OUT OF A KEEP LIKE THIS SIMPLE ONE, I'LL USE-1CC DEXAMETHASON/AZIUM 48 HRS BEFORE-1CC 24 HOURS BEFORE 1CC 2HRS BEFORE, THIS KEEP BLESSED ME WITH 1HR+2 HR WINNERS.

______________________________________________________

Ken Allen & the A Team's Keep

FOREWORD
Training or condition a Pit Bull dog for show or for combat is an individual effort. Your success will depend upon the amount of time and effort you are willing to spend on your dog. This keep is based upon the idea that anyone can bring a dog up to, say, 50% of his potential for strength and endurance. A top amateur can train a dog to 75%, while a top professional can consistently show dogs at around 90% - or more of their potential. This method will take you step-by-step through a complete training cycle for a combat dog.

CONDITIONING
It is my theory that if dog A and dog B are equal in natural ability and gameness and dog A has been better prepared (conditioned) for his fight than dog B, then dog A should win the match; and he will 9 times out of 10. In this keep we will try to do everything possible to help our dog's chances of winning while not doing anything to hurt him in any way. I believe that, in training, if you do 10% or 15% more for your dog than your opponent does for his, then you will win-at least 4 times out of 5. 1 might add that it is the little things that count in the long run. You must follow the general formula of this keep, if you wish to see the maximum benefit and the best results.

SCHOOLING
Your dog has to learn to fight and even though he has a lot of natural desire he needs practice to make perfect. Start rolling him 10 minutes at a time at 15 or 16 months and then every 6 weeks thereafter. Every other time add 5 more minutes to the roll so that at 2 years he goes 25 minutes. By this time your dog will have enough experience to know for sure what's going on.

TESTING
There is only one good way to test your dog. At 26 or 27 months roll him into a dog bigger than him for 30 minutes then put a fresh dog on him for about 10 minutes and scratch them 4 or 5 times. If your dog acts good and scratches good through this then he is ready for a match.

FEEDING AND WEIGHT
It is best for the dog and easier on your pocket book to keep your dog within 3 or 4 pounds of his fighting weight all the time. Excess weight and fat just strain the heart and vascular system. If your dog is more than 3 pounds over match weight, then prior to the keep you should put him on a low fat, high protein diet. Weigh your dog each day just prior to feeding. Never try to take off more than one pound per week. Any more will weaken him. Your feed should consist of 1/4 to 1/2 pound of lean meat and cottage cheese and 1-1/2 to 2 1/2 cups of Purina protein dog feed once per day, depending on the size of the dog. Neck meat off of a bull is the best meat you can get. Always feed the meat in big pieces so it will take longer to pass through the dog. Quite often you can find an animal by-products factory in your area. These places pick up fresh, dead or crippled livestock from farmers, and you can buy fresh beef or horsemeat at around . 10 or.12 cents a pound. Never feed your dog more than he will eagerly eat. If for some reason he doesn't eat eagerly, take the feed away until his next scheduled feed -- this will bring his appetite around. Always weigh or measure the feed. No guesswork. If you weigh the meat and measure the dry feed, then as you weigh your dog each day, you can increase or decrease his feed to control his weight. Do not try to fight your dog too thin as it will weaken him. Always watch the dog's stool every day for any unusual signs such as blood or diarrhea. His stool will give you a daily indicator of his general health. Always keep fresh water available to the dog. Bottled mineral water is also very good for him. Allow your dog to cool out after working him before giving him any water.
Feeding at night is the best, as a general rule. Most matches are at night and it is important for your dog to be empty at the time of the match. No feed the last 24 hours before a match. No water the last 12 hours. Try to be as regular as possible about the time of feeding. In hot weather your dog will eat better at night when it is cool.
Give your dog a One-A-Day vitamin + Iron and one table spoon of Clovite conditioner in his feed each day. Wash his feed bowl before you feed each day and give him fresh water every day.

WORK
Before you start the keep you should give your dog several days or even 2 or 3 weeks of 10 or 15 minutes workouts. Either roadwork or on a treadmill is fine. This will get him used to working and will toughen his feet. Always pay careful attention to his feet for cuts, bruises, or for wearing his pads thin. I like to paint his pads with Bonocain until they get tough. Bonocain is also good for any injuries to his pads. Always avoid over-working your dog. If he gets overly tired or starts breathing rough and straining during a work out, stop and walk him until his breathing becomes normal and easy. As you gradually increase his work, your dog will get a little more exhausted, but he should take the amount of work in this keep with no difficulty. If the situation arises that he can't take the daily increases, give him the amount of work he can take for a few days. He will soon be ready to get back on schedule. Remember too, dogs have their bad days just like humans. If he doesn't act really eager during a workout, rest him that day. That will sharpen him back up.
Hand walking is one of the best ways to get your dog in top condition. It is a little harder on the trainer, but it really pays off in the pit. You cannot overwork your dog by walking him. if you have the time, up to 5 miles per day is ideal. Always walk your dog 1/2 mile before and after each workout. This is the least amount of walking you can get by with and still get top condition.
The amount of work called for in this keep will bring your dog to a peak of condition. But if your dog runs especially hard, you may have to give him a little less work. If you have a lazy dog, it will just take a lot of patience on your part. If you have a lazy dog, you can let him run after a cat one day and a chicken the next. Or you can experiment around and possibly find some other animal he likes especially well. This work schedule is the most desirable but you should be flexible enough to fit it to each individual dog according to his ability. Remember, some dogs just have a lot more natural wind than others. This schedule is listed both in miles and in minutes on a treadmill. If you use a mill, it is very important that it runs free and doesn't make your do pull too hard.

FIRST WEEK:
Sunday - No work.
In the afternoon give him a 2 cc injection of
Combiotic and 2 tablespoons of Milk of Magnesia
Monday - 3 miles or 15 minutes
1/2 teaspoon B-15
Tuesday - 3 1/2 miles or 18 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15, 1 /2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12
Wednesday - 4 miles or 21 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B- 15
Thursday - 4 1/2 miles or 24 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Friday 5 miles or 27 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15, 1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12
Saturday 5 1/2 miles or 30 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B- 15

SECOND WEEK
Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B- 15
Monday - 6 miles or 33 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B- 15
Tuesday - 6 1/2 miles or 36 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12
Wednesday - 7 miles or 39 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Thursday - 7 1/2 miles or 42 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Friday - 8 miles or 45 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12
Saturday - 8 1/2 miles or 48 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15

THIRD WEEK
Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B-15
Monday - 9 miles or 51 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Tuesday - 9 1/2 miles or 54 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B-1 5, 1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12
Wednesday - 10 miles or 57 minutes
1/2 Tsp. B- 15
Thursday 10 1/2 miles or 1 hour
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Friday 11 miles or 1 hr. 3 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone
Saturday 11 1/2 miles or 1 hr. 6 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15

FOURTH WEEK
Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B-15, 2 cc Combiotic
Monday - 12 miles or 1 hr. 9 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Tuesday - 12 1/2 miles or I hr. 12 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-1 5. 1/2 cc male hormone, one 1/2 cc B-12
Wednesday - 13 miles or I hr. 15 min.
1/2 Tsp. B- 15
Thursday - 13 1/2 miles or 1 hr. 18 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Friday - 14 miles or 1 hr. 21 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone 1/2 cc B-12
Saturday - 14 1/2 miles or I hr. 24 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15

FIFTH WEEK
Sunday - Rest - 1/2 Tsp. B- 15
Monday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 27 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Tuesday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15,1/2 cc male hormone
1/2 cc B-12 (This will be the last injection of B-12)
Wednesday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-15
Thursday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.
1/2 Tsp. B-1 5
Friday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.
1 Tsp. B- 15, 1/2 cc male hormone
Saturday - 15 miles or 1 hr. 30 min.
1 Tsp. B-15

SIXTH WEEK
Sunday - Rest - 1 Tsp. B-15
Monday 10 miles or 1 hr.
Tuesday 10 miles or I hr.
Wednesday 5 miles or 30 minutes
Thursday Hand walk 3 miles
1 Tsp. B-15
Friday Hand walk 2 miles
1 Tsp. B-15, Approximately 24 hours before the match give 1cc Male Hormone
Saturday - Rest and quiet
3 hours before the match give 1 Tsp. B-15
1 hour before the match insert a glycerin suppository in the
dog's rectum to be sure he empties out. Hand walk slowly until time to wash your dog.
This keep is based on a Saturday night fight. If you fight on Friday, start one day earlier; for a Sunday fight, one day later.

IMPORTANT NOTES
If you must travel your dog over 100 miles, you should stop every 100:miles and hand walk your dog 8 or 1 0 minutes.
During the keep you should take your dog for a ride in the car once or twice each week, taking him for a longer ride each time. This will get your dog used to traveling and will make the ride to the match a lot easier on him.
If you have to travel over 300 miles, you should go a day early so your dog will get a one-day rest before the match.
Never try to match or condition a wormy dog. He must be free of parasites. If your dog has had Hookworms, it will be at least 3 months before he is fully recovered. Hookworms hurt both his blood count and his wind.
Vitamin B-1 2 will cause your dog to overheat if used the last 1 0 days before the match. If you use a treadmill, always stay with him during his workouts. Don't go eat supper or watch TV. Remember anything can go wrong. Do not match your dog too light with this keep. It is better to match a pound heavier than a pound lighter. All injections are in the thigh muscle with a 1/2 inch 26 gauge needle. Shoot in the left leg on Tuesday and the right leg on Friday or vice versa. Always wash your opponent's dog to be sure you don't get your dog poisoned. Buy yourself a rule book and study it so you will know the rules well. During work outs, talk to your dog; praise him and encourage him, Pet him often. Remember, the more your dog likes you and trusts you, the longer and harder he will fight for you.
IN CONCLUSION There are no great secrets in conditioning. Any dog fighter that does his own conditioning can tell you that the only secret is dedication.
Ken Allen & The A Team
_____________________________________________________________________________

Millmaker's Maximum Stress by Robert Lemm Jr

The biggest secret to success is that there is no secret to success. Relentless hard work and unwavering dedication to the task are the simple cornerstones of most every business success story. Don't look for the easy way to success, instead be willing to do what it takes even when it's hard. Conditioning a dog in preparation for the contest is not hard. Why make it hard work? Past history has proven itself. Most people don't know how easy it is to be successful in preparation for a contest. People sell conditioning programs, proclaiming a success of their writings. Every one should know that conditioning is exercising, raising the heart rate and recovery. Recovery, meaning allowing the body and primarily the brain to oxygen recover. A timely recovery is the most important stage of conditioning. Nobody ever, has incorporated such scheduling of maximum stress and recovery like I have to you all. The best-feed keep in the world becomes an average outing without a timely recovery. So as it stands everyone conditions dogs the same way, except some do it better than others. I chose a free conditioning technique, quick muscle flex over strength conditioning, tension resistance. A free turning treadmill, easy turning flying jenny or a bicycle is a free conditioning, a running "keep". No stress or strain to the body before the contest. That's why Floyd Boudreaux walks a dog so much to give his dog a timely recovery. Mr. Boudreaux knows if one dog needs more recovery time than another, you just have a longer day. You can never over recover a dog. Years of experience have given many men a great life with the dogs. A timely recovery with technique and feed keep is the trick to success. People who sell supplement nourishment can only increase the health of a dog to assist and allow you to get more condition in your dog. To strength condition your dog is to contest your dog heavy. To free condition your dog is to contest your dog lighter. To strength condition is to be stronger but to use very little of that strength in the contest because of all the quick muscle flex. That's to say that it's the wrong technique, because your dog is not at his true weight, so he cannot cool in a contest because of the contest being of fast twitch muscle exercise, not in preparation for the contest. It's a fact that not very many people know how to finish a dog to peak condition with a strength condition.

All the great dogs I've seen contest were free conditioned. Some without a timely recovery and still won. A few great dogs strength conditioned won, but all of the few had to have a timely recovery while being on bottom.

I chose the technique that conditions the body to utilize the most nutrition in a short time, a "running keep". The body will convert a vast amount of nutrients and fuels into energy at a low temperature for a long time. That technique used properly, with a schedule that allows the dog to respiratory recover sufficiently, every time he comes from maximum stress, will allow the dog to start the contest prepared to stay at maximum stress (m/s) for as long as it takes. No contest good for 30 minutes and fade and still win. I mean jump to m/s and at the end of the contest still have an above average heart rate. I'm happy because I did all I could do for that animal whether I win or lose. The words maximum stress expressed during conditioning means he will break stride to recover, because his heart rate has never been higher during the contest than any day during the entire "keep". Most likely never reach but 2/3, which will lengthen the time at m/s, and shorten the recovery time so he can get back to the business at hand with style and a fast pace. Technique, scheduling recovery, progressively resting is the correct way to prepare your dog for the contest. A free turning treadmill, easy pulling flying jenny, or a bicycle allows the dog to condition a very high heart rate without any stress, strain or tension. Your dog may get tired, but never get weak and stagger around, even if the contest goes more than an hour. The contest will tell the whole story. I missed it more times than I would like to remember. I hope to enlighten everyone so your dog won't falter, break stride with no choice in the matter. If at any time he slows down it is because his adversary is on the bottom trying to recover. I will tell everyone everything I know about conditioning maximum stress, so everyone can make adjustments to my schedule if needed. So after every contest you know if the dog needs more recovery time, extended progressive rest time, longer pre-keep at true weight, or the dog lighter, with a running keep you can never contest the dog heavy. When you can do that with confidence and performance you may not do as well as you did last time, but you won't do bad ever again. This way you have a chance to win 5x's, because you start each contest with reserve energy that most dogs use up because they were not prepared for the contest and had to take bottom to recover. If you retire your dog after 3 wins, you will never be able to improve your performance, so you can become a world-class competitor by winning 7x's, and stand next to my peers and I. My free conditioning keep, simple feed keep and 102 treadmills all over the world have won well over 1,000 contests.

FREE CONDITIONING
What to do, what to expect, in preparation and during conditioning, and in preparation for the contest.
Progressive work schedule

The book explains the respiratory recovery method for a contest. I've chosen a 15 minute session, check the heart rate, if the heart rate is the same or less than the day before take the dog for a 5 minute walk and add 5 minutes of work to the schedule. Do this day after day until you build a second 15-minute session. It takes two 15-minute sessions to reach a true maximum stress (M/S) with a rise in temperature. Continue to add five minutes of work until you get a bad recovery. A bad recovery means a higher heart rate than yesterday and yesterday was too much work. Now you know essentially how much work your dog can take. Continue to check his heart rate every day at 15 minutes in case you get a good recovery again so you can add another 5 minutes, looking for another bad recovery. Whether or not you are adding work or not, three days before the contest you cut that work in half. Two days before the contest cut the work in half again. You cannot achieve this properly with strength conditioning of any kind. You can purchase a heart monitor at the following address:
DAMARK
1-800-729-9000
7101 Winnetka Avenue North
PO BOX 9437
Minneapolis, MN 55440-9437

REST
The only rest your dog gets is the progressively decreasing his work on the 28th, 29th and the contest day, because your dog will take on fluid with rest as you know the meaning of rest without your dog's heart rate being a t maximum stress. Resting a dog any other way, you most likely will have to take away his water, use the needle, use a lighter dog and come to the contest with a wet dog that can't breath and have to take bottom. Most likely you can win, but you can never win 5x's because of what you did the last three days of rest. If your dog is at his true weight when you get a bad recovery your dog will continually get strong until rest days. If on 29th day he is heavy? Do the same amount of work you did on the 28th day. When your dog achieves a fixed time because of a bad recovery that day to the end of the keep, your dog will build a solid base of condition. It's called rest! At this part of the keep his respiration may fluctuate slightly from day to day. Marginal differences should be of no consequence. By this time you will know what a bad recovery is, and make any adjustments in work time. Understanding "maximum stress" plus ten days of pre-keep, and twenty-seven days of the keep only conditions your dog for the contest, three days correctly resting the dog is the only real preparation for the contest night and is equally important as the previous thirty-seven days of keep. Not enough rest or too much rest has the same effect on your dog. It allows maximum stress (energy deficiency) to show up in the contest sooner than you expected. I rest the dog with less and less mill work in the last three days of the keep, because the dog doesn't need much rest, if any at all. The dog needs to retain the rate of conversion at his true weight. I rest the dog just enough for the dog's body to store inside fat (quick burning energy) that is used and replaced daily under stressful conditions, and retains fluid at a rate that I control. This procedure allows my dog to breath freely throughout the contest, which results in no hot spots, they just keep kicking ass! That's why they all start fast, and keep their adversary at maximum stress with no chance for recovery with no choice in the matter. I really love to watch my dog smother the other dog.

PROGRESS WORK SCHEDULE
1. I get home from work.
2. I take my dog off the chain.
3. I walk my dog to empty out.
4. Put dog on treadmill, he should run as fast as he can, and I leave the room.
5. I can hear the noisy treadmill I build when the dog breaks stride. When he breaks stride, he should fall to a walk or a long stride to rest and recover because he's oxygen deficient. I come back into the room so he will stay at the rest mode. I usually sit down and write something for one of the magazines.
6. At the 10-minute mark I jump up leave the room, and he should break on top again. It is good for a dog to be able to break out on top with ease. It's called free conditioning.
7. When he breaks stride, down to a walk or a long stride to the rest mode, I come back into the room and sit down.
8. At the 15-minute mark I put my foot on the mill and check his heart rate. Every day of the keep and all the way through to your contest your dog will do this 15 minute session. Take his heart rate, take him off the mill and walk him out in the same place you emptied him out at the start of the day, for five minutes. After 10 days of pre-keep you should get a handle on the heart rate that prepares him for the progressive work schedule, with no stress or strain in preparation for hard work. As long as it takes to get your dog to his true weight before you start adding work. I've had dogs on a 15-minute schedule for a year with small amounts of simple feed keep.
9 Three more days of the same schedule of the Keep to insure an accurate heart rate.
10. On the 4th day of the Keep is the first day of progressive work schedule. If his heart rate is the same or less than the day before at the 15 minute mark you get to add 5 minutes of work after you take him for his 5 minute walk. He should break on top for a few minutes and break stride to rest. At the 5-minute mark, take him off the mill and walk him out for 20 minutes and put him up and feed him.
12. On the 5th day of the "keep" do the first 15-minute session and check his heart rate. If his heart rate is the same or less than yesterday add another 5 minutes to his work schedule.
13. On the 6th day of the "Keep" do the first 15-minute schedule, check his heart rate. If his heart rate is the same or less than yesterday, add another 5 minutes to his work schedule. Walk him out for 20 minutes, put him up and feed him.
12. On the 6th day of the keep do the first 15-minute session, check his heart rate. If his heart rate is the same or less than yesterday, add another 5 minutes to the schedule, which will make another complete 15 minute session, so you take him for his 20 minute walk, I cool my dog down with a water hose if the weather permits, (70 degrees F) or more. Only after completing his second 15-minute session, on the 6th day, will your dog begin to warm up.
13. Two 15-minute sessions is the foundation of this free conditioning program. Continually adding 5 minutes every day building another 15-minute session looking for a bad recovery.
A bad recovery means a higher heart rate than yesterday; meaning yesterday was too much work. It could take 3, 4, or 5, 15-minute sessions to get a bad recovery. When you get a bad recovery, you know how much work your dog can take. There are many variables to contend with if your treadmill is not free turning. Your dog has to gallop instead of running freely. Usually a dog will stop and stand after he comes down from the gallop on a hard pulling mill. The 10-day pre-keep will condition your dog to gallop the treadmill instead of preparation for increased work. When he gets to the contest he will experience a higher heart rate than you conditioned during the keep. The reason people can't see when a dog breaks stride on a hard pulling mill. It's because he doesn't get any rest on top tugging at a gallop and if he is in good enough shape to walk on a hard pulling mill after galloping for 10 minutes, he won't get any rest tugging at a walk, so you actually overwork your dog, starting with the first day on. You will actually condition your dog to run the treadmill instead of preparing him for the contest, and when the contest starts he's sure to take bottom to rest. Your dog will have to take bottom much sooner than expected. It's called too much work, not enough rest to recover. That's why when I come home from work I only walk for 5 minutes, so I can put him on the mill ice cold for 3 to 6 minutes on top, because he will start the contest ice cold. When he does warm up in the contest at Maximum Stress he will feel strong because you have prepared your dog for the contest every day. It's a feeling that he experienced every day of the keep. Hoping your adversary was conditioned with a different work schedule, most likely your adversary will experience uncharted territory with a higher heart rate than any day of his condition and not be able to recover. You win the contest and retain his reserve energy (life sustaining fat) that he didn't have to use up in a long contest with stress and strain.

K/D Prescription Dog Food
Any vet will have K/D Diet Dog Food, but it is prescription because of the cobalt in it. It's very important to use K/D Dog Food as filler, along with the feed sheet I sent you with my book. There's no way you can condition maximum stress using any other dog food. Not just because of no cobalt, because all others have so much animal fat and meat by-products, more fat. To condition maximum stress properly in preparation to peak condition, your dog ends up with life sustaining reserve energy which will be used after your dog comes down progressively from maximum stress. Only you will know how long he should stay at m/s because you worked him. Most people hate to see their dog get to m/s because shortly after, their dog will falter and have to take bottom to respiratory recover.

Conditioned maximum stress means to condition the heart to beat as many times per minute until your dog breaks stride to recover. When he breaks stride it's because his brain is oxygen deficient, breaking stride starts his recovery with no choice in the matter, as soon as the workload decreases.

In the contest, he should never reach a heart rate as high as any day on the mill. If you achieve that with technique and diet your dog will fall into his own schedule. When he becomes oxygen deficient, he will break stride to replenish the oxygen in his blood. During the contest it takes 4 ½ minutes at a very high heart rate for all of the blood to get back to the heart. But all the blood leaving the heart isn't equally distributed. Which is just fine for normal living.

When the contest starts, and the heart rate increases, the blood becomes more and more oxygen deficient, that's the beginning of maximum stress. When a dog falters, slows down, breaks stride it's because the brain is oxygen deficient more so then the body. As I've said before, the blood leaving the heart is not equally distributed. Under normal living conditions the body can and does absorb oxy