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Dog Aggression

Dog aggression is any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting are all aggressive behaviors. Although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs, they’re generally unacceptable to humans. From a dog's perspective, there’s always a reason for aggressive behavior. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren’t schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious," when displaying aggressive behavior.

Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.

 

Beginning signs of aggression

Young puppies up to the age of six months will sometimes act aggressively and even snap at or bite someone. These beginning signs of aggression are usually easy to correct because of the pup’s age, size, and lack of maturity.

Young dogs, six to ten months old, represent a different quality and degree of aggression but are still considered manageable and, through reconditioning, can be corrected.

A dog older than ten months, who is acting aggressively and has bitten someone, is much more difficult to recondition, and the aggressive behavior can sometimes not be changed.

No matter what solution one tries, there is no guarantee that a mature dog who has already bitten someone will never bite again. You have a potentially very dangerous situation on your hands!

The body language or signs of defensive aggression displayed by a puppy are: a prolonged direct stare, raised hackles, growling, showing his teeth, arching his body, and curling his tail between his legs. If any of these signs are present during the following circumstances, you should be concerned and need to get professional help:

  • eating
  • sleeping and suddenly disturbed
  • being petted, especially when your hand is drawn over the top of his head
  • approached by strangers
  • approached by other dogs
  • protecting toys
  • protecting the house or yard
  • being groomed or examined
  • being around children

Any dog who is not trained, that is, does not understand his subordinate position to you, will try to become "top dog." One example of this is when a dog repeatedly jumps up on you. An out of control dog is like a belligerent teenager, always pushing to test the boundaries. This behavior can be a prelude to aggressive behavior.

Assert your dominance! Get your dog trained! Teach him to respect you and others near and dear to you. If you are concerned about your dog’s aggressiveness, seek the guidance of a professional dog trainer. In the meantime, confine or muzzle your dog whenever people are present.

   Types of Dog Aggression

Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established (see our handout: "Dealing With Dominance In Dogs").

If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, it’s likely that he’ll challenge you in certain situations. Because people don’t always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping, or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner, like hugging, may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar, or reaching out over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted by him as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for dogs in the same family to fight with each other is instability in the dominance hierarchy (see our handout: "Canine Rivalry").

Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it’s your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog’s response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, perceiving this to be a threat, may bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.

Protective, Territorial And Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property. However, your dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of "his" yard. For example, if you walk your dog regularly around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block! Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals that a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys or other valued objects, such as Kleenex stolen from the trash!

Redirected Aggression: This type of aggression is relatively common, but is a behavior that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal that he is prevented from attacking, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard. The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they can’t attack the intruder. Predation is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior, because it’s motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.

Individual Variation

Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite. The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques. How easily the threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behavior modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented. Working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior.

What You Can Do

  • First check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.
  • Seek professional help. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist.
  • Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep everyone safe. Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog’s activities until you can obtain professional help. You’re liable for your dog’s behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and keep in mind that some dogs can get a muzzle off.
  • Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his people-contact.
  • If your dog is possessive of food, treats or a certain place, don’t allow him access to those items. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
  • Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial and protective aggressive behavior.

What Not To Do

  • Punishment won’t help and, in fact, will make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause him to escalate his behavior in order to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
  • Don’t encourage aggressive behavior. Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt to "best" you or "win" over you, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are encouraged to "go get 'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.

 

 General advice

1) Don't approach a strange dog, especially one which is tied up or confined
2) Before you attempt to pet a dog, ask permission from the owner. Let the dog become familiar with you by allowing him to see and sniff the back of your closed hand.
3) Never leave children unsupervised with any dog, no matter how trustworthy
4) If a dog is not be trusted with children or visitors to the home, then consider muzzling it. Modern muzzles allow free air passage and drinking, and do not frustrate the dog.

 

If threatened by a dog

1)Stand still
2) Don't scream
3) Avoid eye contact with the attacking dog but don't lose sight of him either. Try to remain motionless
4) Keep your hands reasonably high. Moving hands tend to be the first part of your body to be bitten
5 If you have anything to hand, like a briefcase or shopping bag, use it to block the approach of the dog. If you are a cyclist, don't cycle harder because most dogs can outrun a cyclist. Jump off your bike and position your bicycle between you and the dog.
6) If you are knocked down, lie still, curl into a ball and play dead - this is especially important for children.
7) If you are carrying food, use it to distract the dog.
8) If these things are not getting the dog away from you and you cannot see the owner, then shout 'sit', because most dog owners have trained their dog to sit and many dogs will obey it automatically.
9) Don't ever turn your back on the dog and never, ever run. The dog's natural instinct is to chase and catch prey. Most dogs do not have the courage to confront someone who is still but they may have a bite of someone's backside if they are on the run.

 

Temperament Testing For Puppies
By Kathy Diamond Davis
Author and Trainer

Puppy temperament testing is both science and art. Much of a dog’s temperament is genetically based. We continue to learn more ways the behavior is shaped by physical traits, including invisible or subtle ones. Dogs have different structures in their eyes that cause them to actually see the world differently, just as one example.

By the time a puppy is old enough for a temperament test—commonly 7 to 8 weeks, though other ages work well, too—the pup’s experiences in life have also affected temperament. Even at this tender age, it’s not possible to say with absolute certainty that a particular trait is solely genetic and not at all learned.

Indeed, you can dramatically improve a puppy’s responses on a temperament test by good handling and good experiences. The changes you make in the test scores this way wouldn’t be inherited by that puppy’s offspring. And yet the ability to benefit similarly to such handling and to show improved test scores from it might well be passed on to pups.

The mother dog’s behavior affects the puppies through her contact with them. She passes her genetic material to them and then heavily influences their early life experiences.

Clearly it’s in everyone’s best interests to make sure mother dogs have good genetics, good health care, good training, good conditioning to human handling, good socialization to everything that will be around when rearing pups—and even good experiences when pregnant. She is far, far more than an incubator!

Which One to Pick?

People enjoy puppies, and some insist on adopting their dogs only in puppy hood. Puppy temperament testing offers a tantalizing promise of predicting the pup’s adult temperament. The tests seem simple and tend to be scored in easy numbers such as one through five. It sounds easy! Sometimes, though, you simply cannot tell what that puppy will be like as an adult.

Puppy testing became well known after the publication of Clarence Pfaffenberger’s book “The New Knowledge of Dog Behavior.” Every dog lover will enjoy reading this fascinating book about the puppy testing and handling methods that revolutionized the selection and rearing of puppies for guide dog training. Considering the time and expense that goes into training a guide dog—not to speak of the hopes and dreams and the genuine need for the service of the dog—the choice of a dog to put into the program takes on great importance. The new methods raised the success rate from around 9 percent to about 90 percent!

The jobs dogs are trained to do have expanded many times over since the book’s first printing in 1963. One of the most important jobs dogs do today is unofficial, and that is the job of companion to humans. Particularly where there is a vulnerable human in the household, suitable behavior from the dog becomes critical.

We also now work with dogs in other assistance roles for people with disabilities, as therapy dogs to provide emotional support for humans, in several police roles, multiple military roles, search and rescue, arson detection, termite detection, customs, border protection, livestock herding, livestock guarding, drug detection in schools, security for people at high risk, and many other jobs. New tasks that dogs can perform in partnership with humans are found all the time. Dog training has become so sophisticated that we now know how to elicit behaviors in dogs that in the past we had to just hope would happen by accident.

The rub, though, is finding the right dog. Just like people, individual dogs are different, with different strengths and weaknesses. Breed is a clue as to what a dog might be trainable to do, but far from a guarantee. Bloodline is another clue, but puppies in the same litter can be quite different from one another. If you see them grown up trying to do the same job with two different handlers, it’s not unusual to note that those dogs would be better matched with the opposite of the handlers they have!

It’s easy to see why puppy temperament tests have become routine. They are far from perfect in predicting how the pup will turn out, but any information helps. Keep in mind, though, that puppies change a LOT as they mature, and the effects of experiences they have later will not show in puppy testing. We all think we can give our puppies the perfect upbringing, but of course there is no such thing as a life free of mistakes and accidents. If you need a known temperament for a specific purpose, a young adult dog is a better choice than a puppy, and plenty are available.

The Tests

Where can you find a puppy temperament test? There are many. The Pfaffenberger book goes into great detail. Susan Clothier wrote a puppy testing booklet. Carol Lea Benjamin wrote one. William Campbell’s book “Behavior Problems in Dogs” includes a puppy temperament test. Wendy Volhard developed one of the best-known tests.

Other puppy tests have been devised by all sorts of organizations and individuals in attempts to choose the right dogs for their needs. Each trainer will have a different personality, different physical abilities, and will often be teaching the dog different tasks using different training methods. With experience, each program and each trainer learn to narrow the criteria of testing to come closer and closer to the ideal dogs for their work.

To pick the test that best fits your needs, study as many as you can find, in books, online, at seminars, from your puppy’s breeder, from rescue and shelter workers, from experts in the work you want to do with your dog, and anywhere else you can—BEFORE you choose a puppy! Here are some of the elements you are likely to find on a puppy temperament test:

1. Take the puppies one at a time to an unfamiliar but comfortable setting for the test. Ideally the person handling the pups will be a stranger to them, possibly taking directions from someone who knows the test. It’s important to handle each pup exactly the same. Videotaping is a good idea, along with taking notes.

2. Test the puppies more than once, because one test might catch some of them at an off time physically and give an inaccurate result. The puppies are jetting through critical development periods at these ages, too, and not all at the same pace.

3. A good breeder or caretaker will have many observations on each puppy to share with you, so listen carefully and consider these with the test results.

4. The breeder has that all-important genetic knowledge (or should have) that puts the test results into the context of what a puppy with those test results of that breed AND bloodline is likely to be like as an adult. The more you know—the more you’ll know! Testing pups of known genetics is more accurate than testing pups from unknown bloodlines. Tests on mixed breed pups leave a lot of room for error.

5. Restraining the puppy gently with tummy up is a common test. You would want to see different responses depending on the temperament you need. As with many things in life, there is not just one “right” answer. Few handlers would be looking for the puppy who fights this restraint, but some people want the dog to struggle just a little before accepting it. They feel that shows certain working qualities. Reading the dog is important, too. The dog who just lays there might be relaxed — or frozen with fear.

6. Another test is to lift the puppy off the ground. You’re looking for the degree and duration of resistance to being held in the air.

7. Young puppies tend to follow, and how much the pup follows you when you walk away can indicate the degree of interest in humans.

8. Kneeling or squatting and calling the puppy—remember to call each puppy exactly the same way—also shows the pup’s interest in humans.

9. Touch sensitivity is sometimes tested with pressure of thumb and forefinger squeezing the webbing between two toes, counting slowly to ten as the pressure is increased. Fingernails are not used, and the pressure is stopped when the dog gives any reaction at all.

10. The tester may teach the pup a simple skill such as sitting for a treat, looking for trainability, response to praise, response to food, and other qualities.

11. Retrieving instinct can be tested by getting down on the ground with the puppy and tossing a light, appealing item forward a few feet. You gently restrain the pup and make sure the puppy is interested in the item first, and then you toss it in a way that causes the pup to visually track it. You release the pup to run to it.

You’re looking for any part of the sequence: a) run to the item, b) pick up the item, c) carry the item, d) start back to you with the item, e) carry the item part or all of the way to you, and f) deliver the item to your hand. If the puppy does bring the item to you, give it right back to the puppy to reinforce this terrific response. If the pup runs out and grabs it, you’ve got something to build on. If the puppy runs out, grabs it, and carries it, that’s outstanding, too.

12. In a non-frightening way, pups are often tested with unusual sights, sounds, footing, and other experiences. These experiences, as well as the whole temperament evaluation, should be made enjoyable for the puppy. There is no excuse for hurting or frightening a puppy in the name of temperament testing! Puppies soak up learning like sponges, and temperament testing should contribute to a puppy’s future, never detract from it.

Who Gives the Test?

Your best bet when getting a puppy is to deal with someone who thoroughly knows the genetics of the litter and is an expert in that breed. Such a person will be happy to arrange puppy testing because it enhances her own knowledge of the litter. You will want the benefit of all possible information from the testing she routinely does.

Most of us are well served by letting this knowledgeable person choose the pup for us—making sure, of course, to be completely honest with her so she can best know what kind of pup will make a good match. It’s highly possible she will choose a different pup for you than you would choose for yourself, and that her choice for you will be better. She will also have the advantage of observing the puppies in other settings, probably for many hours. She brings a real depth of familiarity with those puppies to the task of choosing the best one to join your family.

If you have a specific job in mind for your dog, talk to experts in that work and find out what puppy tests they consider applicable and what responses they like to see to those tests for their working purposes. Find out the rationale behind their methods—you want to understand as much as possible prior to any testing. A video of your prospective pup and littermates being tested will allow you to study the test over and over, and to get the opinions of experts about the pup you are considering.

If you need to give the test yourself, do your homework FIRST! The puppy will be different the second time you test, the third time, the fourth time—every time is a learning experience for the puppy that will change the response the next time. Any interaction you have with the puppy prior to the test will also have an effect, especially if you have spent more time with one puppy than with the others.

Puppy temperament testing is a task you may have better success getting an expert to do for you than other favors. Follow all wishes of the puppy owner as to infection control procedures, which include not going from one kennel to another in the same day. Puppy immune systems are immature, and you certainly don’t want to make them sick.

Does It Work?

Experts disagree about the accuracy of puppy temperament testing. Breeds vary greatly, and so do the reasons we test the pups. Different people train differently—and often do not realize just how differently.

The meaning of a puppy’s responses to a test is open to wide interpretation. This is certainly part of the art and skill that an experienced tester brings to the task. Having tested puppies and then known those puppies as adult dogs will help refine a person’s ability to see a response on a puppy test and look to what that response is likely to mean in the adult that this baby dog will become.

So, does puppy temperament testing work? Sometimes it works very well. Most of the time it probably helps at least some, if the person who trains the dog makes good use of the knowledge to shape the temperament in the desired direction.

Provided the puppy is always treated well in the process of testing, it’s certainly worthwhile to do it. The people have fun, the puppy learns, and human knowledge of dogs moves forward.
 


 

Temperament Testing Adult Dogs
By Kathy Diamond Davis
Author and Trainer

When adopting a dog, the two qualities people want more than any others are good health and good temperament. Both are heavily influenced by genetics and are also affected by how the dog has been treated. Experiences have had opportunity to alter the temperament of adult dogs.

Some use the term “temperament” to describe only behavior the dog has inherited. In this thinking, only inherited elements of the dog’s behavior would be passed on to offspring. Determining where inheritance leaves off and experience begins is never quite possible, but always worth making the effort when seeking a dog for breeding. That effort also requires learning all you can about other dogs in the bloodline.

Another word for what we’re trying to evaluate in a dog to adopt is “personality,” though some people object to attributing any aspect of personhood to a canine. Whatever term used, we need to remember that dogs behave largely out of instincts, some quite different from human instincts. Expecting a dog to perceive the world in human terms or to behave like a human is unfair to the dog and can even be dangerous.

We evaluate a dog’s temperament by interacting with the dog and taking note of the dog’s behavior in response to ours. We also observe the dog’s reactions to things such as noises, strange sights, other animals and different walking surfaces.

Because behavior can be profoundly affected by the dog’s physical state, the dog needs to be examined by a veterinarian prior to temperament testing. Some medical conditions call for postponing the test, while knowing about some other conditions will give you better information for determining the meaning of behaviors seen on the test. For example, a dog’s reluctance to move from lying down to standing or sitting would not be surprising if that dog has a sore knee or hip, and would not reflect on the dog’s attitude toward commands or on the dog’s ability to learn.

Purpose of Testing

A temperament or personality desirable for one purpose is often undesirable for another purpose. A meaningful test requires knowing the situation for which the dog is being tested. Will the dog be trained to join an active person in dog sports or long daily walks, and spend a lot of quiet time with the same person? Or is this a quest for a dog to hang out in a household with young children where an adult has just enough time to provide the dog with basic care?

Often the purpose is to find a dog for specific dog sports, hunting, assistance dog work, therapy dog visits, herding, search and rescue or other specialized need. It can’t be stressed enough how important it is to include someone with expertise in that field in the selection and testing of the dog. Experts love to help match the right dog with the right home. Such happy events help to offset the heartbreaks inevitable in work with dogs.

Without the expert help, people choose the wrong dogs. We act out of emotion, out of incomplete information, out of expedience because someone offers a free dog—often with sad results. If the dog turns out to be ill-suited for the job, the choices are all difficult. You can place the dog in another home, which is sad. You can keep the dog and give up on the job you had wanted to do with a dog. Or you can push the dog to do a job the dog doesn’t enjoy.

The first responsible action in dog ownership is choosing a dog you are equipped to responsibly care for and control. So get that expert help! Unless your situation is such that it’s really not wise to get a dog at this time, chances are the right dog for you is out there somewhere. But without the right help, you might never find that good match.

In advance of talking to the expert, take plenty of time to write out what you are looking for in a dog and what you have to offer to a dog in terms of time, training, home facilities, and other factors. List your children and the other people and animals the dog will need to be around. List your prior dog ownership and dog training experience.

Be totally honest. An expert will see the dog’s potential, but needs your help to see yours. For a skilled dog trainer, a dog who is not housetrained, who destructively chews furniture, and who jumps all over people is just a basic training job. For you it might be beyond the training you want to do, are capable of doing, or have time to do. The expert needs to know these things.

Be as specific as possible. Then, for clarity’s sake, go through and organize the information. Make it easy for another person to read and refer back to while narrowing down dog choices and evaluating specific dogs. The better the expert understands your needs, the better for you.

You may need to pay for the temperament evaluation, or you may not. It’s certainly worth paying for, if it’s done well.

Preparations

Prior to the temperament test, you need the best possible history on the dog, with all the information you can gather. If this is not written out for you already but is available by word of mouth, make a written record.

You also need to do thorough breed research and decide what breeds you will consider prior to meeting any dogs. An expert conducting the test for you should be familiar with the expected and desired reactions of the breeds being tested. [For more on this and some simple tests you might use, see Adopting a Shelter Dog.]

The dog needs to be on leash in a reliable collar. The test will require some props, including at least dog toys, a ball, a food dish and a chair. The test needs to be in an area where you won’t be disturbed; preferably a place the dog has never been, with at least one skilled dog handler the dog has never met. That person can do the actual handling of the dog while at least one other person helps, observes, and takes careful notes. A videotape is a good idea.

If you want to test the dog around other dogs, cats and/or children, a separate person needs to direct and control these individuals for safety. You want only children who are good with dogs, only dogs who are reliable with other dogs, and the cat carefully protected.

Tests Available

Experts have devised many different dog temperament tests. When choosing a dog for a performance purpose, testing seeks to determine whether the dog is going to be able to physically, mentally and emotionally perform the task for the duration of a career. Equally important is whether the dog is likely to learn effectively and perform reliably when trained with the methods the trainer plans to use. A dog being chosen for training with an electronic collar is likely to be different from a dog wanted for clicker or play-oriented training.

The American Temperament Test Society awards titles to dogs who pass a test that includes protection reactions. This type of testing is useful for prospective Schutzhund dogs.

Sue Sternberg has developed a test for shelter dogs that checks closely for aggressive tendencies. Experts differ on exactly what evaluation for aggression is appropriate for stressed-out shelter dogs, but no one wants to see dogs adopted out who subsequently bite people. If a shelter you visit uses this or any other temperament test, get all possible details for deciding whether or not to adopt the dog. You can find information on Sternberg’s test in her book “Successful Dog Adoption.”

Trish King’s book “Parenting Your Dog” includes testing information for selecting a shelter dog as a puppy, adolescent or adult, based on her extensive experience. The adolescent dog—and many dogs in that age range are available for adoption—can bond quickly with a new person. The dog’s behavior at this age may still be very open to modification with good training. The downside is that adolescent dogs are changing so much that you may not get accurate results from testing, unless an excellent history on the dog is available.

The AKC’s Canine Good Citizen Test evaluates trained behavior along with temperament. It’s not the kind of test you expect to pass with a strange dog. It is certainly a good sign if a dog you are considering adopting has passed the Canine Good Citizen Test with a former owner. But since the test evaluates dog and handler as a team, it doesn’t indicate whether the dog will work equally well with you as handler.

Jack and Wendy Volhard have created a test of dog personality based on the four drives of pack, prey, defense fight, and defense flight. This isn’t really a test you could “give” to a strange dog. It’s a series of questions you answer about the dog’s known behavior, which means you have to get to know the dog first. If you have a dog you are seeking to better understand, it’s a fantastic tool for that purpose. You can find it online and also in their book “Dog Training for Dummies.” It’s especially helpful in finding the best ways to help your particular dog learn.

Test Accuracy

A temperament test given once can only look at a dog’s behavior in that one situation at that time. It is a great tool for detecting behavior that needs to be watched more closely and improved by handling and training. It gives limited information about how much improvement you might be able to achieve.

Dogs keep changing, especially when their life circumstances have recently changed. One way to get a good temperament evaluation is for a dog to spend at least a few weeks in a foster home. The dog’s initial behavior, the behavior observed over time by the foster person, and one or more temperament tests given after the dog has been in a stable situation for this time will give much more accurate information.

When you want to adopt a rescue dog and temperament will be important to the dog’s success in your home, a dog who has spent time in a knowledgeable foster home can be ideal. Of course we need to be especially careful of temperament in homes with young children. A behavior problem that could be handled by adults with time to train and facilities to keep the dog out of trouble in the meantime can be fatal to a dog in a home with children. When a dog injures a child, it’s more often the dog who dies rather than the child.

Temperament testing is a fascinating way to better understand your dog. Once you have chosen a dog, occasional evaluation can point out ways to fine-tune your training for best communication between the two of you. Good temperament testing can help you find and train your dream dog.

 

Kathy Diamond Davis is the author of the book Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others. You can email Kathy at MrsGoodPuppy@aol.com for personal answers to your canine behavior and training questions! Should the training articles available here or elsewhere not be effective, contact your veterinarian. Veterinarians not specializing in behavior can eliminate medical causes of behavior problems. If no medical cause is found, your veterinarian can refer you to a colleague who specializes in behavior or a local behaviorist.

Copyright 2005 - 2005 by Kathy Diamond Davis. Used with permission. All rights reserved.

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